Sacsayhuaman and more!

Another successful day in Cusco! Once again, I had plans to somewhat rest and prepare for the Inca Trail, but I was busy. I actually slept exceptionally well, waking up much earlier than I planned. Breakfast was good with eggs, toast, coffee, and tea. After breakfast, I was ready for the day. First thing first, I had to check in with my tour group. They require us to check in and pay the remaining balance 2 days before the trek with intentions of helping us get used to the climate. When I checked in, she went through the itinerary with me and gave me a map with our marked campsites. 

I wasn't really sure what else I was going to do today other than hike. But as I was getting my stuff put away before checking in with the tour group, 2 girls in my room were talking about a free walking tour. I asked them about it and got the information. After checking in, I went to the fountain were the tour was to start. I saw a tour group just leaving when I got there. Another tour guide was there to give me and another, an Australian girl, a private tour. He was friendly and very knowledgable of the Peruvian and Incan history. We toured around the square, then down some original Incan roads to ruins of Incan palaces. We even got to feed and get pictures with an alpaca! 

We toured through San Blas (part of the historical district) and ended up on a lookout that overlooks Cusco. Our tour led us to the Mercado de San Blas, a food trading market. They also had people fixing meals. We decided to eat there as the tour guide left to start another tour. The Australian (Sonya) and I stayed and ordered the Machu Picchu sandwich, a huge sandwich that was amazingly cheap (US $2). There was also a Portuguese couple that we got to know and they suggested a fruit juice containing mango, orange, and carrot. He let us try some of his first which was really good. I ordered one which costs US $.80 and ended up with 2 huge cups of it, so I shared with my new travelling partner. She ordered 2 other Peruvian juices that we tried. 

I had some other plans for the day and so did she, so we agreed to meet at the Mercado de San Pedro for dinner and parted ways. From there, I hiked a LONG, tiring staircase to the top of one of the nearby mountains. It was worth it! I got to see the Blanco Cristo, a small replica of the famous statue in Rio Dijenero. This statue overlooks all of Cusco which was an amazing sight. It is actually visible from the main square. 

After enjoying the sight, I hiked up to Sacsayhuaman, the ruins of an Incan palace. The trail itself was pretty awesome and the ruins were just as impressive. Unfortunately, to get to the top costs 70 Soles, so I decided to pass it up since I'll be at Machu Picchu at the end of the week. 

From there, I hiked back down to another lookout where some Perivian woman were dressed in the traditional clothes. One was weaving and the other 2 were there with there llamas. I rested there for a bit before hiking back down to Plaza de Armas. 

At the plaza, I rested a bit since the hike was pretty steep and the temperature reached 81 degrees. I decided to head back to the hostel where I showered and changed. I was going to bring my dirty clothes to one of the many laundry places here, but did not have time before dinner. 

I packed up my day bag with what I needed and headed to San Pedro, a 10 minute walk. I met Sonya there and we walked through the market which was amazing!  It was huge and filled with stands selling all kinds of Peruvian fruits, cheeses, etc. There were also stands selling clothes and other handmade souvenirs. Unfortunately, it was getting close to closing time and the stands selling meals were closed. We decided to walk around and find a cheaper restaurant. 

I brought up a restaurant on my GPS and walked about 10 minutes to get there. It was a nice restaurant with awesome Incan decorations. I had the pimiento rellano which I have been wanting to try. We hung out there for a bit, talking about travelling. About the time we were ready to leave, a Peruvian band came in and started playing. They were probably the best musicians I've seen so far here. And so far, Peru has had the most street musicians of any other place I've been. We decided to meet up tomorrow to tour the Inca museum. 

I headed back to my hostel where I decided to rest after the long day. I put in another 5 miles today. Now, I'm relaxing under the open sky next to the fire pit, in the rain. So far, definitely a trip I would recommend! 

The Entrance into Peru!

Well, the last few days have been eventful! It started out flying from Burlington to Chicago where I had an 11 hour layover. I, for the most part, just slept in the airport until I was able to check in with Copa airlines. Check in and the security checkpoint went smoothly and I was able to get another nap before departing. 

The flight into Panama was long (5 hours). I didn't sleep well on the plane but did get a little nap. They served us complimentary breakfast before landing in Panama City where we had a 1 hour layover. The layover, however, didn't seem long. I wasn't at the gate long before we started to board. 

The next flight was smooth as well and I did manage to sleep. We only flew for 3 hours, but that nap helped. I also had my own row. They did serve us a dinner of chicken sandwiches and salad. 

We landed in Lima, Peru and went through customs quickly. For a small airport, it was busy. I decided to exchange some currency for Peruvian Soles. I didn't realise how good the exchange rate is. $140 comes out to 407 Soles. I claimed my baggage then took a taxi to a small hotel called the Caribe. I wasn't originally planning on getting a hotel, just sleep in the airport. But I'm glad I did because I felt quite refreshed the next day. 

I took a taxi back to the airport where I checked in and rechecked my baggage. We flew from Lima to Cusco (my final destination). It was a short 1 hour flight that seemed to fly by (no pun intended). I had my own row on this flight as well. As they served us complimentary drinks and snacks, I tried their soda called Inca Kola, which tastes a lot like a fruity bubble gum. Cusco has a small airport, so after landing, it was easy to claim baggage. I repacked my carry-on (a drawstring bag), and programmed the address into my Garmin Etrex 20. Cusco isn't very big, so I figured I could walk anywhere (even though I was bombarded by taxi drivers). It was a nice walk through the busier part of town. I can say, Peru is different than what I expected. The culture is something you just have to see to understand it. 

My GPS took me right to my destination: Peru Treks. I figured I would check in and pay my remaining balance with the group I'll be backpacking with. Unfortunately, the office was closed (it's Sunday and almost everything is closed). Fortunately though, it was on my way to Plaza de Armas: the main square. 

It didn't take long to get to the plaza. I figured it would be busy, but not this busy!  It's obviously one of the hot attractions in Cusco. There's 2 cathedrals on the square along with restaurants, travel agencies, currency exchanges, and travelling salesmen. All throughout the plaza are locals walking around trying to sell things, mostly artwork. There are also police EVERYWHERE. This just supports that Peru isn't really as dangerous as some people think. It also didn't take long to figure out that it's good to know at least a little Spanish. That has really made this trip easier. 

I walked around and explored the plaza, along with the town around the plaza. There is quite a bit to see and there's an abundance in travel agencies trying to sell me trips. There's also an abundance of locals dressed in traditional Peru dress, which is kind of cool.  

My hostel checkin wasn't until 1 pm and I arrived at 6 am, so there was plenty of time to kill. While at the plaza, I had some more currency exchanged. I tried to rest on the benches periodically because of the high altitude. Cusco is at 10,000 feet and the air is obviously thinner. I didn't seem to have much of an issue with it though. When I stopped to rest, I could feel it. It's not necessarily harder to breath, but I find myself breathing faster and occasionally taking a deep sigh. I also found that it's quite hot here. Around 8 am, the temperature was in the low 70s and by noon, it was almost 80. With little cloud cover, I got sunburned on my first day. 

Around 9, I went to a restaurant that was serving breakfast and had an awesome egg dish. They also make their own juice using fresh fruit. I also decided to try the traditional drink Chicha Morada (purple corn, pineapple, cinnamon, and cumin). It was a lot better than I though it would be. 

Later in the morning, (probably more like noon), there was a small parade through the square. Locals dressed in traditional Incan dress, playing music and dancing. It was really neat. 

When 1 came around, I headed to the hostel: Intro Hostel, with the help of my Garmin. They quickly got me checked in and showed me to the room and gave me the choice of top or bottom bunk. I was glad I could get a bottom bunk. 

The hostel is unique with a villa, open design. The center is open and there's a boardwalk that stretches around the perimeter to get to the rooms. I was surprised to see that the self service kitchen is in the open area. They also have their own travel agency which I might use in the next couple days (you know, white water rafting, bungee jumping, etc.) Not sure, though what all I'll do for the next couple days. I decided to rest for a bit at the hostel since I'd been walking all morning with a 21 lbs backpack. I hung out here for a bit and took a nap. 

After my nap, I decided to find dinner. I had my heart set on trying cuy (roasted Guinea pig). I walked around and compared prices to find the cheapest. That's one of the things about Peru: if you see some thing you like, keep walking and you will probably see it cheaper. I found a nice restaurant and ordered my meal and It was good (tastes like squirrel), though the skin has a weird texture. I probably won't eat it much because it's pretty pricey. I also tried coca tea, which tastes like a mix of chamomile and grean tea. 

After dinner I headed back to the hostel where I got a shower in. The restrooms/shower houses are a little different. The downstairs one is co-ed and the upstairs one is men only. Different from what I'm used to. Now, I'm able to sit back and enjoy the fire that the staff just started. I originally had planned to take it easy today to get used to the altitude. I ended up doing a lot more walking than anticipated, putting in 6 miles. Tomorrow should be a more eventful day with plans to see sacsayhuaman and a miniature of the famous statue in Rio Dejinero!

Surviving Hypothermia

It seems like just yesterday since I wrote my post on transitioning to fall gear. Now, it is the first day of winter. Just like going into fall, winter has some transitioning. From gear, to food, to camping techniques. I have posted quite a bit on winter camping, but it has been a while since I last posted on surviving. I try to keep a habbit of posting on one winter emergency per year and today, I encountered a hypothermia case.

Of any other winter emergency, I believe hypothermia can be the deadliest. Hypothermia is also known as low body temperature. It is when your body temperature starts to drop and as it drops, your body will go through different stages. This can be caused, not only in winter, but on a cool summer night as well. For the most part, hypothermia can be avoided, but on certain occasions, it cannot and if you encounter such a situation, it's important to know how survive it.

First of all, let's look at the cause. Hypothermia is caused by exposure to cold over a long (or short) period of time. In a campig situation, it can be caused by having a sleeping bag rated to high, not wearing the right clothing, not eating enough, or the worst: getting wet.

Being wet when it's cold is the fastest way to develop hypothermia. As your body temperature begins to drop, you will go into progressive stages of hypothermia. It starts out by feeling cold and shivering. I'm sure we have all experienced this at some time. You begin to shiver and feel your whole body getting cold, but more so of the extremities. As time passes, your extremities will become colder. As your body temp drops, your body will cut off circulation to your extremities to keep that warm blood in your core to help you survive.

As it progresses, you will stop shivering. This is when it becomes dangerous and tissue damage can occur. The skin will become cold and turn to a blue or white color. In ths stage, the person will also become lethargic and confused. The mental status will drop as the body temperature drops and in late stages, the person will become unconcerned about their condition. They will eventually lose consciousness and appear dead.

If this happens to you, or someone you're with, the most important thing is to get dry. Even in the middle of winter, you are better off naked than in 10 layers of wet clothes. Strip down all wet clothes and if you have a towel or dry clothes, be sure to get dry and put on any spare clothing. It is important to have soething over your head. Most of your body heat escapes from your head. If the sleeping bag is dry, bundle up inside. When you are warmed up, quickly build a fire. You may not be able to if you are going into hypothermia because of the shivering. However, you want to get warm before you become confused, especially if you're by yourself so if that's your only option, get stripped down, then build a fire.

If you have a fire, hang your clothes near it to dry them out. If you carry a space blanket/casualty blanket, that is a good option. If you have one, wrap yourself in it and open it slightly towards the fire, allowing the heat to reflect onto your body. When you start to feel warm, close the blanket up until you are fully warmed up.

If none of the above are available, you still needs to find a way to warm up. If you are with someone, shared body heat is the best method. Huddle together and if you have one, share a blanket or sleeping bag. If you have a hiking partner that is going into hypothermia, be sure to share your body heat with him. This will work better than most methods.

When you are sitting waiting to warm up (such as near a fire), you are better off sitting on your backpack or chair and stay off the ground. The ground will cause you to lose more heat, so try to stay off the ground.

These are the basics on recognizing, treating, and preventing hypothermia. Remember that hypothermia does not just occur in winter but can happen all year round. Be prepared for it and dress to prevent it.

Transitioning Gear From Summer to Fall

A couple days ago, we went into the first day of fall. I personally love camping in the fall. The scenery is a better sight, the climate feels more relaxing, and of course, colder nights creep up on us. It seems that when we transition from summer into fall, temperature seems to start dropping rapidly. Not an uncomfortable low, but enjoyable with a long sleeve shirt and hot chocolate. Winter camping used to be my favorite season, but now I'm leaning more towards fall.


With the drop in temperature, some things do need to be considered in regards to gear. Our gear changes for each season and a few considerations are to be taken when dealing with fall. Let's first look at the obvious gear change for this season: warmth. This is a little easier to determine for autumn months than winter months.


The big change in clothing is primarily long pants and shirt. I personally wear thin-to-medium long pants and that is adequate for me. Some people need heavier pants and some people get along fine with shorts. If you will be backpacking in the fall, I recommend getting a durable set of convertible pants. Many fall days can be warm, so it's nice to have shorts, but the nights can get cold. With convertible pants, you can zip on the pant legs when the temperature drops.


As far as shirts, I will often wear short sleeves while hiking, but have a thin, long sleeved shirt handy. When you hike, you will warm up, but if you stop for a break and it's cool outside, it is nice to have that extra layer. I will generally bring a thin, long sleeved shirt along with a fleece sweatshirt.


Several posts back, I went into choosing sleeping bags. This can vary quite a bit in the fall based on various factors. I recommend having a sleeping bag rated around thirty degrees colder than you plan to be sleeping in. If the forecasted temperature is to be 60 degrees, you may want a 30-40 degree bag. Remember that most sleeping bags are rated for survivability and not comfort. Some bags have an EN rating which is a European rating. With the EN rating, the upper limit, comfort level, lower level, and extreme ratings are labeled. Right now, I have a 32 degree bag and the next down is a five degree, so I have to use discretion. My 32 degree bag is down fill so it's light and my 5 degree bag is synthetic so it's bulky and heavy. If I have any doubts, I usually go with the colder rating bag. Over the past month, I have experimented with bag ratings and shelters and have found that the type of shelter you use may change what sleeping bag you need. When I sleep in a tent or just in the open, I found that it's a good idea to stick to the 30 degree rule (having a sleeping bag rated 30 degrees below the outside temperature).


When you sleep in a hammock, there are a few factors to think about. If you use a GOOD under quilt, you could stick with the 30 degree rule and should be okay. Though, you may want to consider having a bag rated slightly lower. I've found that your butt will start to chill during the night. When in a hammock, your butt will compress the sleeping bag more than normal, so naturally, it won't loft as well. A good way to compensate for that are to use a good under quilt. When the temperature drop to low 50's, an under quilt may or may not cut it, depending on what sleeping bag you have (assuming you are using the 30 degree rule). Sometimes, the under quilt will keep you warm all except for your butt. That can be fixed by placing a space blanket between the under quilt and hammock under your buttock. You can also just use a thin tarp. A lot of the times, the coldness is caused by convection or wind. If you use a material that prevents the wind from getting to you, the problem can oftentimes be fixed.


Another problem I find is my feet getting cold. I have this issue more than my butt getting cold. I will oftentimes wrap my feet in jacket or coat and that mostly fixes the problem. It would be a good idea to get a pair of thick Marino wool socks that you only wear for sleep. That can almost always fix the cold feet problem (in the autumn months of course).


I recently started bivy camping within the last year. What I have found is that bivy bags will trap heat. In the winter, this is a great plus, but it can be easy to over-insulate in the fall. So far this fall, the coldest it has been was 52 degrees and I used my 32 degree bag. I did find myself unzipping the bag quite a bit. When using a bivy bag, try to have a sleeping bag rated close to 20 degrees lower than the outside temperature. When you add an insulated sleeping pad, it can change that up, but not significantly enough to make much of a difference. If you use a bug bivy, you should probably stick to the 30 degree rule. (Stay tuned for a future post on bivy camping).


Another aspect I look at that isn't quite so critical is food options. For a weekend trip or impromptu trip, it's easy to just grab some Ramen noodles or Mountainhouse freeze dried meals. However, in the fall, it is nice to have a well cooked meal. If the temperature is going to drop, the extra calories will keep you warm. But aside from that, on a cool, fall night, it's enjoyable to have a well cooked meal, sitting back around the fire. I also like to have hot chocolate or hot tea for the evening (bear in mind that tea will make you leave your sleeping bag for the latrine). My camping buddy takes a travel mug along that will keep the hot chocolate warm for a good part of the night. He likes to keep it near his sleeping bag so he can sip on it during the night when it gets chilly.


There really isn't a whole lot that goes into transitioning gear from summer temperatures to fall temperatures, but the changes are significant. If you are looking at getting into backpacking or hiking, I recommend starting in the fall because that is, in my opinion, the most enjoyable season to hike. Now get out there and adventure on!