Transitioning Gear From Summer to Fall

A couple days ago, we went into the first day of fall. I personally love camping in the fall. The scenery is a better sight, the climate feels more relaxing, and of course, colder nights creep up on us. It seems that when we transition from summer into fall, temperature seems to start dropping rapidly. Not an uncomfortable low, but enjoyable with a long sleeve shirt and hot chocolate. Winter camping used to be my favorite season, but now I'm leaning more towards fall.


With the drop in temperature, some things do need to be considered in regards to gear. Our gear changes for each season and a few considerations are to be taken when dealing with fall. Let's first look at the obvious gear change for this season: warmth. This is a little easier to determine for autumn months than winter months.


The big change in clothing is primarily long pants and shirt. I personally wear thin-to-medium long pants and that is adequate for me. Some people need heavier pants and some people get along fine with shorts. If you will be backpacking in the fall, I recommend getting a durable set of convertible pants. Many fall days can be warm, so it's nice to have shorts, but the nights can get cold. With convertible pants, you can zip on the pant legs when the temperature drops.


As far as shirts, I will often wear short sleeves while hiking, but have a thin, long sleeved shirt handy. When you hike, you will warm up, but if you stop for a break and it's cool outside, it is nice to have that extra layer. I will generally bring a thin, long sleeved shirt along with a fleece sweatshirt.


Several posts back, I went into choosing sleeping bags. This can vary quite a bit in the fall based on various factors. I recommend having a sleeping bag rated around thirty degrees colder than you plan to be sleeping in. If the forecasted temperature is to be 60 degrees, you may want a 30-40 degree bag. Remember that most sleeping bags are rated for survivability and not comfort. Some bags have an EN rating which is a European rating. With the EN rating, the upper limit, comfort level, lower level, and extreme ratings are labeled. Right now, I have a 32 degree bag and the next down is a five degree, so I have to use discretion. My 32 degree bag is down fill so it's light and my 5 degree bag is synthetic so it's bulky and heavy. If I have any doubts, I usually go with the colder rating bag. Over the past month, I have experimented with bag ratings and shelters and have found that the type of shelter you use may change what sleeping bag you need. When I sleep in a tent or just in the open, I found that it's a good idea to stick to the 30 degree rule (having a sleeping bag rated 30 degrees below the outside temperature).


When you sleep in a hammock, there are a few factors to think about. If you use a GOOD under quilt, you could stick with the 30 degree rule and should be okay. Though, you may want to consider having a bag rated slightly lower. I've found that your butt will start to chill during the night. When in a hammock, your butt will compress the sleeping bag more than normal, so naturally, it won't loft as well. A good way to compensate for that are to use a good under quilt. When the temperature drop to low 50's, an under quilt may or may not cut it, depending on what sleeping bag you have (assuming you are using the 30 degree rule). Sometimes, the under quilt will keep you warm all except for your butt. That can be fixed by placing a space blanket between the under quilt and hammock under your buttock. You can also just use a thin tarp. A lot of the times, the coldness is caused by convection or wind. If you use a material that prevents the wind from getting to you, the problem can oftentimes be fixed.


Another problem I find is my feet getting cold. I have this issue more than my butt getting cold. I will oftentimes wrap my feet in jacket or coat and that mostly fixes the problem. It would be a good idea to get a pair of thick Marino wool socks that you only wear for sleep. That can almost always fix the cold feet problem (in the autumn months of course).


I recently started bivy camping within the last year. What I have found is that bivy bags will trap heat. In the winter, this is a great plus, but it can be easy to over-insulate in the fall. So far this fall, the coldest it has been was 52 degrees and I used my 32 degree bag. I did find myself unzipping the bag quite a bit. When using a bivy bag, try to have a sleeping bag rated close to 20 degrees lower than the outside temperature. When you add an insulated sleeping pad, it can change that up, but not significantly enough to make much of a difference. If you use a bug bivy, you should probably stick to the 30 degree rule. (Stay tuned for a future post on bivy camping).


Another aspect I look at that isn't quite so critical is food options. For a weekend trip or impromptu trip, it's easy to just grab some Ramen noodles or Mountainhouse freeze dried meals. However, in the fall, it is nice to have a well cooked meal. If the temperature is going to drop, the extra calories will keep you warm. But aside from that, on a cool, fall night, it's enjoyable to have a well cooked meal, sitting back around the fire. I also like to have hot chocolate or hot tea for the evening (bear in mind that tea will make you leave your sleeping bag for the latrine). My camping buddy takes a travel mug along that will keep the hot chocolate warm for a good part of the night. He likes to keep it near his sleeping bag so he can sip on it during the night when it gets chilly.


There really isn't a whole lot that goes into transitioning gear from summer temperatures to fall temperatures, but the changes are significant. If you are looking at getting into backpacking or hiking, I recommend starting in the fall because that is, in my opinion, the most enjoyable season to hike. Now get out there and adventure on!

Budgeting for Gear

If you are new to backpacking, cycling, hiking, and the like, you are probably trying to find what gear is suitable for you. When I first started, I researched for a long time on each piece of gear I got (mostly looking over gear reviews). I took the approach of buying gear I thought I could use without really looking at what I actually needed. This certainly filled my gear closet, but unfortunately, I hardly ever use most of the gear I have. The downside to buying all the gear that you "think" you need is the cost of buying it. A lot of this gear can be very pricey and you really should research what you really need before buying your gear.

First, you want to think about what kind of adventuring you are interested in. If it's cycling, you have buy a good bike, along with the panniers, and the rest of the gear you need for camping. If you're hiking, you need some good shoes and a good, comfortable pack. So, as you look for your gear, consider what conditions you will be in. If you're wilderness hiking, you will need some additional gear that you won't need for hiking to a hostel. Are you hiking along or as a group? This is a very important factor! If you are in a group, you may not have to get certain things, such as a cook set.

As you look for gear, probably the first things you are going to look at (that costs some money) are a tent/hammock, sleeping bag, air mattress, cook set, backpack/panniers, and some good shoes. So, lets look at what you really need.

As far as a tent, are you hiking alone? If you are alone and don't need excess room, you can buy a small 2 person tent from WalMart. You can settle for a cheaper tent to start out with. You may spend around $60 for a tent to start out. If you have an abundance of money, you can get a more pricey tent such as an MSR, Big Agnes, or Eureka. However, these can cost as much as $300. My first backpacking tent was a 2 person one that was on sale at WalMart.

Now for the important thing: sleeping bag. A good sleeping bag is the difference between sleeping at night and being miserable. You want a good, comfortable sleeping bag. You can get one at WalMart, but the smaller ones that fit into a pack are not all that great. I recommend Big Agnes, North Face, or Slumberjack. These are a little costly, but will last a while and are much better than a $20 one. Of the 3 things that you should put a little more money into, I believe a sleeping bag is one.

Sleeping pads are cheap and a foam one can be bought for $5. The more comfort you want, the more you are going to spend. A basic one is around $5, but a better one can cost up to $30. If you insist on superior comfort, you can go with a backpacking air mattress such as a Big Agnes of Slumberloft. These can be expensive though. Before buying one of these, ask yourself how often you will really use it. I used mine a few times after getting it, then went to hammock camping and quit using it. I use it a little more now, but before buying gear, make sure you know what kind of camping you are interested in.

The second thing I believe you should spend some money on is shoes. It is important to have good hiking shoes! If you have mediocre shoes, your feet will hate you after a day of hiking. I recommend GTX, Columbia, Salomon, or Keen. These as expensive shoes, but are worth it. You should determine whether you need high tops or low cut. Generally, low cuts are cheaper. A good pair of shoes can range from $60 to $190.

The third thing that I think you should put a little extra money into is a backpack. If you buy a cheap backpack, it won't last long and will give you problems on the trail. Again, these can cost some money, sometimes up to $200. Before buying, determine what kind of hiking are doing. Are you day hiking? Then you don't need an expedition pack. There are different style packs for different types of hikes such as alpine, expedition, day packs, and climbing. If you get a good pack, it will last you for a very long time. I recommend brands such as Osprey, Teton, and North Face.

Cook sets and stoves can cost a small fortune, so you want to be sure what exactly you need. If you are hiking in a group, see if a couple others have a cook set and if they do, you may not need one. If you do get one for group hiking, you may need a bigger set. But then again, it depends on how you do meals. If you are hiking on your own or if everyone in your party is responsible for his own meals, get a smaller set. Not only are these cheaper, but they fit in a pack better. Some of these can cost up to $150, but you can find some for around $30. Some good brands are Jet Boil (which also has it's own built-in stove), GSI, or MSR. Think about how you cook. Do you minimize? Do you make extravagant meals? This will depend on what set you get. Also, do you winter camp? If so, you may need a bigger pot for melting snow.

Stoves can range from $20 to $200. If you are starting out, you probably don't need an expensive one. I have a $20 one that I got off Amazon when I first started backpacking and continue to use it because it works really well. You can get a Jet Boil, MSR, or Solostove, but these are expensive. Also decide what kind of cooking you will do and what type of stove you need. Will a wood stove or alcohol stove be sufficient for what you are doing?

From there, you have the rest of your your gear that is less expensive such as navigation, flashlights, paracord, etc. These things you can buy gradually. Some stuff you may think you need, but probably really don't. However, some things seem logical to have, but you end up not using it. The best way to determine what you need is to just out get out and camp and hike. As you gain experience, you will learn what you will use and what you won't. If you need a list of what you might need, refer to one of my previous posts on my gear list (click here).

Overall, you can budget for each item: tent $100, sleeping bag $50, sleeping pad $10, stove $30, backpack $150, shoes $90, cook set $30, misc. hiking/camping gear $120-$200. So, if you were to buy it all at once, you could pay around $600 which isn't too bad. The key is to really determine what you absolutely need and start with that. I hope this post has helped in figuring your cost and budgeting for your gear. As always, any questions or tips, please comment.

Packing for kayak/canoe trip

As I'm getting ready to head out for an overnight kayak trip down the Mississippi River, I decided I would write a post on packing for overnight kayak/canoe trips. If you have read any number of my previous posts, you would know that I am a minimalist. I try to minimize my loads down to the bare essentials. With that being said, packing for a kayak or canoe trip is a little different. If you are on a bike or hiking, you have to lug that weight. But in a kayak or canoe, you can budget for more weight since you aren't physically carryinging it. 

As you pack, as with any trip, you have 2 categories of gear: net gear and gross gear. Your net gear is what you absolutely need and should take on every trip (i.e. Water bottle, compass, map, etc.) These are your essentials that should be on every trip. I keep all of these in a backpack or a pannier, while in storage, so they are all together. 

Gross gear is what you can be more flexible with. This is the gear that can be altered to your trip. (i.e. Clothes, food, shelter, etc.) Each trip is a little different and you may change what you bring. This is where you pick and chose to adjust your weight. 

Gear

As I said before, when packing to go out on the water, you can budget for more weight so you can have a few more luxuries. As far as what to bring, here is a list of your net gear:

Water bottles/bladder

Compass

Map of the area

Whistle

Flashlight (or headlight)

Multi tool

Cord (paracord)

Survival kit (fishing kit, matches, water purification tabs, space blanket, spare flashlight, etc)

First aid kit (minimum: bandaids, gauze pads, tape, medical gloves, Benadryl, antibiotic ointment)

Bandanna

Fire starter

These are what you should always have on you during a trip. Everything else you could possibly do without if you desire. Even though shelter, a stove, food, and sleeping bag are important and you may definately want them, you could do without if need be (at least for an overnight trip). In addition to this list, you can now add your gross gear. Below is what I recommend for an OVERNIGHT canoe/kayak trip. 

Some sort of shelter

Sleeping bag

Stove and fuel

Cook set

Food

1 change of clothing (if bringing shoes, a couple pairs of socks)

Fishing gear and license

Camp chair

Small shovel and saw

Water filter

Sunscreen

Insect repellant

Solar charger

Spare batteries

Rain gear

Tinder 

Toilet paper

Spare blanket

Of course, these item can be tailored to what you would use. Again, you don't have to exactly skimp on stuff, but you should also try to not overpack. In addition to these, you will need to take trek-specific gear: paddles, life jacket, etc. 

If you plan to go for more than one night, you can easily alter your list. The net gear will remain the same, but your clothes, food, etc. may be changed depending on how long you will be gone. 

I recommend making a list for each meal. What will you eat as a main course? What will you drink? Will you want any sides for the meal? These are some questions to ask when writing a menu. Also budget for snacks for during the trip. 

Next, how often will you change clothes? If I'm doing 3 nights, I could get by with 1 change of clothes, plus maybe an extra shirt or 2. Some people need to change every day. Bring the amount of clothes that you think you will need. 

Finally, how many people are in your group? If you will be by yourself, what's on the list may be all you need. If there's more than one person going, you may only need 1 stove, 1 tent, 1 shovel, etc. If it's not something that is specifically for you, you could probably bring just one of that item to share (such as a stove). 

Packing

To pack your gear, I highly recommend dry bags, especially in a canoe. I also use a dry bag in my kayak and put it in the front. The type of kayak also determines how much you bring. Size, sit on top vs. enclosed, compartment space. In a canoe, you can load your bags onto the floor and maybe tie them in. If it's a sit on top kayak, you will have to secure your dry bag, whereas with an enclosed one, you can push to the front and back, letting it just sit there. If you have compartments, store your immediate essentials that you will need on the trek in these. If it's airtight, even better. If it's not airtight, I would advise to not store anything that is not waterproof.  Everything else I would suggest packing in a dry bag. They do make dry bags that double as backpacks. 

I would also recommend getting some dry boxes. I keep my survival kit in a dry box, which I would advise doing. I also keep my multi tool, carabiners, fishing license, and any other small items in one. If you have a paper map, you can get a waterproof map case (or use a ziplock bag). I also have an Armor Series Otterbox. You can get one of these or Lifeproof for your phone if you plan to use it on the water. The key idea here is to waterproof anything that might get ruined if you tip over. I would also highly recommend tying everything to your watercraft or make sure everything floats to keep from losing it. 

Packing for a canoe/kayak trip is relatively simple (in my opinion). This is a good start and if you see need to get rid of some things or add some, you can do so. For a first time, overnight trip, this is a great start. Any questions or additional ideas, comment below. 

Beginner climbing gear list

The warmer climbing season is starting back up soon. It's the time of year to get the gear out, check it, air it out, inspect it, replaced bad gear, and maybe even add some. It's always a thrill to go through your climbing gear after it's been stashed away for the winter (if you're not an ice or alpine climber). I just went through all my gear and even added some along with making a list of gear to get in the future. Ah.. The memories of just starting out. Deciding what gear I needed to start climbing, what brands are best, what sizes I need, how many carabiners, and the list goes on. 

When I first started buying my own climbing gear, I struggled. I didn't know what gear I needed for starting out. Sure, I knew I needed carabiners, a harness, a helmet, a rope, webbing, and a belay device, but was there anything I was missing? How many carabiners do I need? How long should my webbing be? What kind of rope should I get? All these questions cluster a new climber and maybe this year, you are starting out or interested at looking into it. Well I decided I would make your life easier by giving you a basic list to go on. You may want to get other things to add on right away, but trust me, only get what I have listed to start out. If you have a bigger budget or ready to expand, I'll give advice at the end on how add on to your rack. Don't do what I did and buy lead climbing gear before even mastering toprope climbing. 

Buddy

The most important thing you need when climbing is at least one climbing buddy, 2 is better. You can't climb unless you have a belayer and someone to check you over. If you don't know what a belayer is or how belaying works, don't even start on getting climbing gear. Take a class, climb with experienced people, and gain experience before you venture on. 

When climbing, your buddy should know what he is doing as well. Your life is in his hands, so make sure he is experienced. The only time you don't necessarily need a buddy is when bouldering. Bouldering is climbing without protection no higher than 10 feet. If you want to start out bouldering, all you need is a helmet, climbing shoes, and chalk with a chalk bag. 

Rope

Let's face it, you can't climb unless you have a rope. There are many different ropes out there, so it can be challenging finding the right one. In the climbing world (in any world, actually) there 2 types of rope: static and dynamic. Static rope is generally thicker, but the main distinction is it's stretchiness. Static rope is meant for rapelling and rescues. Its designed to have minimal stretch. In fact, the stretch is so little, that you generally don't even notice it. DONT GET THIS KIND FOR CLIMBING! I will get to this kind later on. You want dynamic. Dynamic has significant, noticeable stretch to it. The purpose behind this is to give a cushion when you fall. If you miss a handhold and fall back, the rope will have a little give to it. If you were to use static rope, it would be an instant stop and you could potentially get hurt. The dynamic rope is like a shock absorber, taking most of the energy from the fall before you actually stop. 

If you are starting out, you will be toprope climbing. That is the simplest form of setup and easiest and safest to climb. When looking at ropes, take the type of climbing your are doing into account. Since you are toprope climbing, you won't be shock loading the rope and shouldn't be falling a distance before the rope catches you. And since that is the case, you don't need a really think rope. A 9mm diameter will work just fine. It's lighter and is easier to work with. 

You also want to consider length. Length is determined by the type of climbing as well, but since you are starting off, go with a standard length. 60 meters (or 200 feet) is a good length. You shouldn't be toproping higher than about 90-100 feet when you are new. Always have leeway on your length. You want plenty of extra rope so you know you won't run short. As you get into technical climbs, you can start determining exact length you want, but don't even think about that right now. Stick with 200 feet. 

When buying a rope, get it at a sporting goods store or climbing store: a place that specializes in this stuff. Don't trust getting rope over the internet. You don't know the condition of it when it comes in. It looks new, but what makes you think it didn't get damed or exposed to chemicals during the shipping process? Be safe and buy it at a store. 

Carabiners

This was ways difficult for me when I started out. I didn't know how many carabiners I would need on a climb and thought maybe I should just rack them up, get about 20. Don't do this to start off, be easy on your budget. You need a minimum of 4 carabiners: 2 to secure the belayer on top (or rope to webbing on top), one for the belay device, and one if you want to make a shoulder harness. If your belayer is on the bottom and you want to secure him too, get 2 extras. Sometimes, you may need to work with the anchor and modify it, sometimes it takes an extra carabiner or 2. If your are starting out, you probably don't have to worry about it. There's always the possibility of a carabiner getting dropped and damaged so it's good to have spares. I would recommend 6-7 carabiners to start off. I know they are cheap compared to some of the other gear, but don't let that fool you, the cost can add up quick. 

There are many types of carabiners for several purposes that I won't even get into. For the purpose of your climbing, get standard assymentric and pear carabiners. These are the best you can get for your type of climbing. The assymentric are your all-purpose climbing carabiner. The pear shaped carabiners will generally be used for anchors and protection. 

Carabiners come made in steel or aluminum. For climbing purposes, get aluminum. They are light and made for climbing. There are steel climbing carabiners, but they are intended for loads much heavier than you are going to have such as rescues. If you want bomber stationary anchor such as a tree, you can us steel carabiners to connect the webbing to the rope or belayer. Other than than, you want aluminum. 

In addition to shape, carabiners have variations in the gate. You want to start with screw gate carabiners. There's straight gate, bent gate, wire gate, screw gate, and 2 types of auto-locking (ball and triact). The gate needs to be able to lock so it won't be able to open. This narrows your choices to screw gate or auto locking. The other ones aren't used for toprope. I recommend getting screw gate. They are the simplest and cheapest. They are almost half the cost of an auto locking. If you prefer auto locking and find it easier to use, by all means use it. But it's much cheaper to get screw gate and they are just as good. 

Webbing

There are different types of webbing out there and you need to be aware of exactly what you need. There's webbing designed for many types of work, that's why it's a good idea to go to a climbing store so you know you are getting what you need. You want tubular webbing. There's also flat webbing, but knots hold better in tubular webbing and the knots are easier to get out when your done climbing. The amount you need really depends on where you are climbing. I recommend having 1-2 30 feet pieces, 3-4 20 foot pieces, and a few 10 foot pieces. If you are getting a roll and cutting it yourself, that's around 110-190 feet. 

Belay device

You need a belay device that you find comfortable and one that you know how to use. There are several styles out there to chose from. I would stay away from belay plates, but that's my preference. If you know how to use them and you're comfortable with it, get one. Standard belay devices are fairly cheap. There's 2 styles: standard and grooved. I recommend one that has grooves and teeth on one side. This makes it so much easier to lock in the rope. 

What's your goal for climbing? Do you plan to branch out into technical climbing? Perhaps lead or sport climbing? If so, get a regular belay device. That way it can be used for those climbs in the future. It comes with a carabiner and clips onto your harness so you have it when climbing multi-pitch crags, pretty slick. If you want to just stick with toprope climbing or have future goals of taking groups, you may want something safer like a Petzl GriGri. The rope feeds through this and when the climber falls, the device locks onto the rope automatically. However, they are heavy so if you want to go into technical climbs, stay away from these. They are also quite expensive so as you start out, get a basic belay device. 

Harness

When looking for a harness, it's important to find one that fits you. It should fit snug around your waist and legs. It should be of good quality that will last a while and will withstand a good fall. All harnesses are obviously designed to hold you, but some are built better to last longer, even after bad falls. 

When buying a harness, don't just get the cheapest one. I know that when starting out, you want to get all your gear as soon as you can and tend to take shortcuts by buying what's cheapest. But when buying a harness, don't look at the price tag first. Look around and find a brand that you like. I went through buying 3 harnesses before finding the one I liked. Look around and don't just get the first one you like or the next day you might find a harness that you know is "your" harness, but already have one. I'm biased to Black Diamond, but there are other great brands out there. You will find that you may become attached to one particular brand. So as you research, find a brand that you really like. Then after finding the harness you like, you can look at the price, you may find that it's more expensive than you thought and that's ok. If you like it, get it. When climbing, you will be miserable if you're in a harness that is uncomfortable or doesn't set right with you. 

Helmet

There's not a whole lot to be said about helmets besides find one that's comfortable and is a good quality. Unless it takes a hard fall or strike, you probably won't have to retire it for a long time. Again, there's many brands out there so find one you like. There's also many styles out there so find one that appeals to you. 

Other stuff

You can search all over the internet and find all kinds of lists of gear that say to get all kinds of stuff that you don't absolutely need right away. Every list will say to get climbing shoes. Honestly, tennis shoes work just fine. As you gain experience (and have a good handle on your gear list) you will start to find what type of climbing shoe best suits you. But you don't need them right now. They are expensive, especially if you want a pair that will last. Instead, put that money into your essential gear. There are also crag gloves out there. Don't get them!

Another thing recommended is chalk. Chalk makes climbing so much easier, but it's not absolutely necessary when you're new to climbing. Chalk pretty much rubberizes your hands so they grip the rock better, but since you are just starting out, you won't be doing hard climbs that require chalk. I climbed for about 5 years before using chalk. I mentioned before that you need chalk and shoes for bouldering. That is because you are only buying 3 things, 4 if you get a crash pad. Since you aren't buying everything else, you can afford chalk and shoes. But don't get those right away when climbing. 

There are endless possibilities of gear out there and especially in the hardwear section. But you don't need the fanciest carabiner or an ascender. What I listed is what you need. Get the basic stuff first, then down the road you can get the fancier hardwear. You also don't need advanced gear right now. You don't need cams, nuts, hexes, quick draws, and probably not even runners or daisy chains. Don't get this stuff yet. Wait until you have the basic setup, then get gear as you need it. Some people may tell you to get some anchors some as nuts in case you can't find a good stationary one. You will always find a good stationary anchor with the type of climbing your are doing. Only get what I listed for you. 

Rapelling

Maybe you have an interest in just sport rapelling. For sport rapelling, you need a lot of the same gear as climbing. However, you also need a static rope being how it doesn't stretch much. You may also want a dynamic rope so someone can belay you from the top. You should always have a belayer for rapelling in case something goes wrong. However, if you have a tight budget, someone can stand on the bottom and pull the rope if you lose control, called bottom belaying. 

You can get small diameter static rope, but I recommend a bigger diameter. And bigger diameters won't fit through a belay device, so you need a figure 8. There's other descenders, but you're better off with a figure 8. I personally like using a pear shaped carabiner for the figure 8. I also like for it to be auto locking. The auto locking is a preference, but I do highly recommend a pear shaped carabiner. It's also important to have gloves. Without gloves, you will burn the skin off your hands. Leather work gloves work just fine. 

Adding gear

As you advance and have your basic gear, it may be time to start adding gear. I would start with hardwear. You can't go wrong with spare carabiners and carabiners are great universal tools for just about anything. Start with those. Also start with webbing. It doesn't hurt to have extra webbing, especially if you have to self-rescue. 

After the basic gear, you can start looking for climbing shoes. Find ones that are comfortable and won't cause blisters. When you put the shoe on, your toes should be right at the end of the shoe, but not binding. The reason or this is because if your shoe is a little long and you stand on a small foothold, you don't have your toes at the end the shoe to stand on it and will just slip right off. You can also begin your search for chalk. Actually it's not that complicated. Just get a chalk bag that will last a while and some Mellitious chalk. That simple. 

You can also think about adding cordlets, prussiks, and runners. These are handy for self rescue or if there's a problem with gear and you need to tie off to something. You may also want to think about rope protectors. They are sleeves that slide over the rope so sharp edges won't damage it. Other than that, you don't really need any other gear for toprope climbing. I won't cover the gear list for other types of climbs in this post. This list is for the beginner wanting to start out with some gear. 

This is a very basic list of gear, but basic is good. Basic is cheap. You may be anxious to get all the fancy, cool, advanced gadgets, but trust me, you will wish you started with the basics and add to the rack later. 

Military vs. civilian gear

When it comes to finding gear and what brands are best, some people look at military gear as well as civilian. 

I go both ways when looking at gear. Certainly, military has superior gear in some areas, but in what areas? Likewise, civilian gear is better in some areas. When deciding what you want, consider what qualities you are looking for in that particular piece of gear. Let's look at a few things and compare military to civilian. 

There are some civilian brands out there that military actually uses such as Camelback. But they generally have their own manufacturers who make military gear. Packs fall into that category. Military has some awesome packs, but depending on what you are looking for. If your primary concern is durability, military is the way to go. They seem to have best made gear. The design on their packs are continually improving and becoming more comfortable. But if you are more concerned about comfort, civilian has it beat. There are many brands out there that specialize in packs, so they can research and develop packs for superior comfort and usability. Military manufactures, however, make gear designed for combat and rugged use. You can find a good pack with tons of space, but again, they are made for combat and pack space is designed to hold military equipment. Civilian brand packs are designed to optimally carry your camping and hiking gear effectively. 

How about tents? The same goes for them. Military tents are designed for rugged use which is a good thing. However, every military tent I've used were all bulky and heavy. If you are backpacking, you want something designed to be lightweight and compact. 

Food. I personally like MREs. I would take then on every trip. Some people don't care for them but it's because they dont know how to fix them. If you want to take MREs, you have to know how to cook them. Same goes for any packaged food. The reason I don't usually carry them, though, is because of the price. MREs are much more expensive. However, they are more nutritious than civilian brands. It's really a preference on taste and nutrition. 

Survival gear. There are endless companies that make survival gear, but hands down, military is better. It's more durable, accurate, and will last longer. The function of the gear is usually more superior to civilian. Look at flashlights. The new military flashlights have so many features and not to mention waterproof. Civilian lensatic compasses tend to lose their accuracy after rugged use and even after sitting for an extended period if time. Military compasses last much longer. Military navigation gear is designed for military navigation so if you get military, get everything military in regards to survival and navigation. Some of it is compatible with civilian gear, but you're better off getting all military. 

I personally think civilian sleeping bags are better than military. I do like military because they are warm, but they are very bulky and heavy. They don't compress like many civilian brands because they are made of durable materials. My military 30 degree bag is down, but made of canvass which really adds weight. 

Mess kits are a great thing to have. Military mess kits are simple and cheap and are very light. You can put your packaged food, snack, coffee grinds, etc. in it while it's in your pack to keep everything together. However, it's not effective for cooking. Civilian brand kits are also optimized for cooking. I will, many times, bring both because the military ones make great plates and clean easily. 

Overall, military and civilian have equally good gear. What you decide is based on what you are looking for in gear. I didn't cover all the items that could be compared, but you can see how military and civilian have their advantages and disadvantages. What do you prefer? Military or civilian?

Packing the pack

There are endless ways on how to pack your backpack for a trek. You will pack it differently based on type of hike, climate, type of pack, what you use more often, and what you take. As I go through this, I will show how I pack for 3 season vs. winter and hammock vs. tent. My Teton sport backpack has the main compartment, a sleeping bag compartment in the underside, a long outside pocket on one side, two short outside pockets on the other side, a netted water bottle pouch on both sides, a netting gear pouch on the back, a water bladder pouch on the inside, and a pouch on the top flap on outside and inside. 

I also have a smaller pack I use in the summer sometimes that only has a main compartment, two long pockets on the outside on the back, pouch on inside and outside of top flap , and two netted gear pockets on the side. You can see a big difference between the two. All packs are different so how you pack it will vary. I will use my Teton for example throughout this post. I'm going to show you how I pack my pack, then will give some packing principles to always abide by. 

First, I will cover the main compartment. Depending on the trip, the way I pack will change. The following are what I have in my main compartment:

Hammock, pillow, cook set, food and fuel can in stuff sack, air matress, snow shovel, backpacking chair, water filter, clothes. Of course, I don't carry the snow shovel when there's no snow or the hammock when I bring the tent. I don't pack the water filter when I'm hiking in snow. Typically when I pack for a hammock camp, I put the hammock, cook set, air matress, and clothes bag in first. On top of that, I put my food bag, water filter, and chair. Lastly, I put the pillow on top with a Nalgene bottle. In winter, I wrap the water bottle in the pillow. In snow, I take the handle off the shovel and slide both in along the back. In 3 seasons, I put my camelback bladder in the pocket on the inside and squeeze the camelback carrier in somewhere to use as a day pack. 

In the sleeping bag, compartment, I have my sleeping bag and space blanket/tarp. The compartment is rather small so if you have one and a large sleeping bag, you can take some smaller things out of the main part, like food and clothes, and put them in the sleeping bag compartment and sleeping bag in the main or on the outside. You can experiment and work with it until you find a solution. 

The top, outside pocket on the flap is where I put the things I will need the most to keep them handy. All packs have a pocket on top of the pack. The following is what I always carry in it:

Ground cloth, duct tape wrapped around a card, map case and map, compass, cotton gloves, multi tool, first aid kit, hand sanitizer, flashlight, headlamp, and bandanna. You may not put the same things in this pocket, but just make sure to have there what you will need most. 

Just on the other side of the top flap, there's another pocket that I typically keep my hygiene stuff, extra first aid supplies, medical tape, and soap. 

The long outside, side pocket I normally use to put longer, small items and things I may need before opening the main compartment. I usually carry my spare tent stakes, bear bag cord, small shovel, and folding saw. 

The top smaller pocket on the other side I typically put my fire starting and cooking equipment in. I have my stove, lighter, tinder, and back up stove and fuel. The bottom small pocket I use for survival gear. I have a dry box with extra lighter, hand warmers, fishing kit, can opener, and flint fire striker. I also have a pill fob with basic OTC medications like ibuprofen and Benadryl and have my emergency space blanket in the pocket as well. 

On the outside of the pack, I strap my foam sleeping pad on the back and the tent on top (when I use my tent rather than hammock). When I hammock camp, I have my underquilt strapped to the top and spare blanket on the back. I have a carabiner with paracord on it that I put on a shoulder strap. I also put my snacks in the outside mesh pockets. Most packs have some way of securing your trekking poles to the outside and have gear loops for ice axes. When I take snow shoes, but not using them at the time, I use lashing straps to strap them to the sides. I always keep an insulated Nalgene bottle pouch on the hip belt that I keep a water bottle in. It's nice having an insulated one because it keeps water from freezing in winter and keeps it cool in summer. 

That is how I typically pack and it may change depending on what I decide to take and what kind of hike I'm on. You will have to mess around with it and decide how your gear fits best and suits you. But regardless of how you pack, remember these principles:

Pack light

When I first started backpacking, I liked to take EVERYTHING for worst case scenario. But I quickly learned that ounces lead to pounds and pounds add to pain. Only bring the essentials and as you buy gear, get the lightest stuff possible. Do your best to minimize your gear or you will suffer on the trail and may have to dump some stuff. 

Heaviest on top

When packing, bear in mind that when the heaviest items are on the bottom, it will feel heavier than if they were on top. Try to follow this as best you can. However, some heavy things I put on the bottom if they will be the last things I need to pull out such as my hammock. Also try to put the heaviest gear closest to your body and lighter gear away from your body. This will keep your center gravity... Well... In the center. 

Accessibility

Accessibility is important. You don't want your snacks for the day on the bottom of the pack or your sleeping bag on top everything. Pack logically and based on how soon you will use the item. You want the things you will use first, more often, and more likely to be in convenient spots. That is why I put the items I use most in the pouch right above my head. They are handy and I can access them while I'm still walking. For example, when winter hiking, first thing I will want to do when I reach camp is to set my pack down, but without it getting wet in the snow, so I keep my ground cloth in the top pouch so it's the first thing I grab. I can now set it out to put my gear on before setting up camp. 

Obviously, you will also want to put items in the pouches that are more logical. I categorize my stuff when I pack it. The larger gear I put in the main compartment, the essentials I keep in the pouch above my head, the fire starting and cooking gear in one pouch, survival gear is in one pouch, etc. As you pack and hike a few times, will learn where you want your stuff packed. You can pack the same way I do or you may find a method that works best for you. I hope this was a help to you. Comment and let me know what works best for you and what you think. 

My gear list for backpacking

If you search the internet, you can find hundreds of gear lists and videos on gear lists. I recommend eventually making your own gear list and as you gain experience, you will learn what you will and won't use. This list is to get you started and I will give you the essentials that you should absolutely have. Your gear list will vary depending on the type of hike your doing, how long the hike is, the climate and weather. This post will be in conjunction with my next post on how to pack your backpack. 

Shelter

It's pretty important to have some sort of shelter. Whether it be a tent, tarp, hammock, or simply a large poncho. It's always nice to sometimes sleep under the stars with no shelter or sleep in a snow hut, but you should always have some sort of shelter to fall back on. I even carry something that can double as a backup shelter such as tarp or poncho. 

Sleep system

You always need some sort of sleeping bag or blanket. Even summer nights can get cold and it's always nice to have a little extra under you. It is vital that your sleep system is appropriate to the weather. You aren't going to use a 40 degree sleeping bag in freezing temperatures and probably don't want to use a -20 bag for summer. One of my previous posts will help you in determining your sleeping bag. 

Water

Water is the most important thing in any hike. It's always better to have too much than not enough. I personally carry 2 Nalgene bottles. In the warm weather I also carry a camelback and a smaller aluminum bottle. Water does add a lot of weight, so it's important to also have some form to purify water if you go on any extended trip. I have a Cohglan water filter and purification tablets. In winter you can melt snow and don't really need a filter. Plan your trip well. If you know there's going to be plenty of water sources, carry less water and have a filter. If water will be scarce on the trail, carry more. I will post a bit later on how to find and carry water. 

Food

Food is next to water in importance. Your food is all up to you. Your preference in food choices and the length of trip will determine how much and what kinds of food you will bring. There are dehydrated foods out there that you can just add water to. You can always get MREs or carry something like rice or noodles. Just remember that the more you bring, the heavier your pack will be. If you don't pack your food right, you will take up valuable space in your pack. I have been taking ramen noodles and rice in zip lock bags. I carry my food in a stuff sack, but a lot of people prefer to put each meal in its own zip lock bag. I like everything in the stuff sack because when I go to hang my bear bag, I just need to hang my one stuff sack. I will post some recipes for over the fire in a later post. If you bring things that need cooked, you need some type of stove, whether it be an alcohol, gas, or wood. You also need a cook set. I have a larger one for hiking with multiple people and for winter, and a smaller one for hiking alone. Bear in mind, you need something to melt snow in if you're hiking in winter. 

Clothing

You should bring some kind of jacket along, no matter how warm it is outside. The nights may get chilly and you may get an unexpected rain. It's essential to bring extra socks. Depending on how hard you hike, the temperature, and weather, you may have to change socks during the day. When hiking hard in wet or hot weather, you should change your socks 1-2 times a day. Factor in additional clothing that has a potential to get wet or sweaty. It's also vital that you bring some type of hat. In the warm months, you need to keep the sun off your face and neck. In cold, you need to keep your head warm. Your head is very vascular, making most of your heat escaping through your head. When protecting from the rain, I recommend a small, spare poncho because you can keep the rain off as well as have a spare shelter. 

Navigation

I prefer to use maps, I'm a little old fashioned but whether you use maps or GPS, you need something. You never know when you might lose track of where you are and may need to regain your bearings and get back on the trail. I carry a map in a waterproof map case, protractor, pencil, and orienteering compass. Not only should you have them, you should know how to use it. Take a small course or stay tuned for a later post I will put up on how to navigate. GPS is becoming very popular. If you bring GPS, make sure to have spare batteries or a way of charging it like a solar charger. In fact, you should have spare batteries for all electronics. You should also know how to use your GPS before setting out. If you do bring GPS, bring a map as well. You never know when the GPS will quit working or die and it's always good to have a map. 

Pack

In my opinion, a backpack is important. I have never seen someone hike several days without one. The type and brand of pack you get 100% depends on what you like. I have a Teton sport explorer 4000. It's the right size for me and has plenty of room for all my gear. Every pack is different: some have lots of external pockets, some have none. There are several different sizes and styles. Do you want external or internal frame? Do you need some way to hold a water bladder? Do you want a built in pack cover or liner? Before spending a lot of money, determine what you need. 

Tools

I highly recommend a multi tool like a letherman. These can be used for just about anything. I also like to carry a pocket knife. You should consider a small shovel to dig a latrine. I also have a folding saw to cut firewood and a collapsible snow shovel if I'm hiking in deep snow. 

Light

I carry just a small LED flashlight. It fits into small places in my pack and is bright. I highly HIGHlY recommend a headlamp. If you end up setting up in the dark, it's nice to have a headlamp so you can work with both hands. 

First aid

First aid kit is essential on the trail. Being how I'm a paramedic, I tend to go overboard with medical supplies. I recently condensed it down to the essentials: gauze pads, gauze rolls, alcohol pads, bandaids, moleskin, medical gloves, and antibiotic ointment. I also carry ibuprofen and Benadryl. Benadryl is great for allergic reactions. I carry my first aid supplies in a zip lock bag because it can compress more that way. 

Everything else 

Everything else you carry is based on your preference and type of hike. I will, later on, give you a guide on packing for winter trips, desert trips, and ultralight. The following are things you may want to also bring:

Lighter or fire striker

Some kind of tinder

Cord or rope (needed for bear bag)

Duct tape

Repair kits

Sleeping pad or air matress

Camera

Pillow

Space blanket

Survival kit

Gloves 

Hand sanitizer

Backup stove

Bandanna

Carabiner

Fishing kit

Trekking poles

This will be a good start, but alter it to fit you. You may not use some stuff and you may have some stuff that you will use that I didn't mention. Feel free to comment about other things you carry.