The Winter Storm

Snowed in again! Buffalo, New York is receiving another hit from the lake affect snow, resulting in roof collapse, snow in, closed highways, and even some deaths. Many of these people were unprepared for the nasty storm and that is one reason these people are negatively affected by it (in addition to the inconvenience). But there are some things you can do to prepare for such a storm.

The news covered a case where Niagara University women's basketball team was stranded for 24 hours in a bus. They survived off of a few snacks and by melting snow into water. They were later rescued and given more supplies. This is not the only incident of someone being trapped in vehicle, but the question is... would you be ready for a blizzard like this?

With winter approaching, and even upon some of us, we should be preparing for severe weather. The first step is to have supplies in your vehicle for such an event. It is common to have an emergency kit in your vehicle containing jumper cables, a flashlight, gloves, and such. But it is a good idea to also have a fully stocked first aid kit, spare blankets, water, some food, and maybe even a spare coat. You should have enough supplies for each person for about 24 hours. Some people like to also have some cat litter for gaining traction when your vehicle is stuck.

So you have your supplies for a disaster, but how do you respond in such an instance? If stuck in a winter storm, it is imperative that you leave the vehicle running! If you shut off your vehicle, it can cool down quite fast and you may not be able to get it started again if snow builds up near the exhaust. This also implies that you should prepare by keeping a full fuel tank. This is the best way to survive a winter storm.

If your vehicle does get turned off and is unable to be restarted, stay in your vehicle! In a blizzard, you have a higher chance of survival in a vehicle than outside. Not only that, but a vehicle is easier to spot than a person and more than likely, there will be first responders looking for people stranded in their vehicles. If your vehicle does die, be sure to start bundling up. The quicker you heat up your blankets and jackets, the better. This also implies that you have enough blankets for everyone in the vehicle. If there is more than one person in the vehicle, share body heat. To many people, this may seem awkward (especially with certain individuals) but shared body heat is the best way to stay warm. If you are bundled up with someone, you not only share body heat, but also the blankets that you're using. 

In the event your vehicle shuts down and it's below freezing, try to also keep your water warm. You don't know how long you will be there and you don't want to risk having your water freeze on you. You will want to do your best at conserving water. Like I said, you don't know how long you will be there and want to have enough water to last through the storm. When it stops snowing and the wind dies down, it would be safe to open your door to collect some snow. You will have an abundance of snow to melt and drink.

Be sure that you have enough food for everyone! In the winter, you burn more calories to stay warm and you need to replace those calories by eating. If you are cold and shivering, those calories burn up even faster. Dried foods and canned foods are the best to have on hand, and something that does not need to be cooked. MREs are a great choice for food to have on hand. Dehydrated meals are also great because they can be kept for a while and you just need to add water before eating. Like water, be sure that you conserve your food because you don't know how long it will be until you can get free.

After the storm has subsided, don't try to get out and free your vehicle. Chances are, the roads are still un-drivable and you won't be able to go anywhere anyways. All you will do is burn up calories and cool yourself down. Your best bet is to stay in your vehicle and wait for a plow to come through and clear things up. However, if you're in a town and nearby a house, you will probably be safe (depending on the situation) to get out and see if you can warm up in the house. But you must be sure that the owner is home and the door is clear, otherwise you will be wasting precious energy.

It is a smart idea to also have your house, or apartment, winterized. Be sure that the doors and windows seal well to not only keep the heat in, but to avoid drafts and possible snow blowing in. You should also be sure that you have a well insulated house to keep from high heating bills. With the cases in Buffalo, New York, some roofs are collapsing from the weight of the snow. This can be a real danger. So, if the weather is feasible after a blizzard, you may consider clearing the snow off of the roof. Just be careful to not fall through the roof, yourself. You already have that massive weight of the snow and your added weight may be the breaking point. 

Lastly, the most important factor in surviving a disaster: keep your cool (no pun intended). The worst thing a person can do in these situations is to panic. When we panic, we lose all rational thought and can no longer make the sound decisions that we need to. Stay calm and think through the problem. My philosophy is "panicking won't make your situation any better". If you're stranded in your car, leave it running and stay calm. If your house gets snowed in, stay calm and try to clear the snow after the storm is passed. If it helps, try saying the alphabet or counting to 30. For some people, listening to music will mellow them out. Find whatever keeps you calm. Remember that when we panic, the other person panics, then you panic even more. 

Surviving a blizzard or winter storm can be a frightening experience for some. For others, it may not even cause them to bat an eye. In either case, everyone should be prepared for the possibility of a disaster. Follow these guidelines and you may have a better chance of not being miserable in a storm.

Preparing For This Winter: Tips and Tricks (layering pt. 2)

Last post, we learned a lot about layering and conditioning for the winter trips. In this post, I would like to continue some of that and give some tips for hiking and camping in winter that will make your trip more enjoyable. These will simply be some tricks and techniques that you may find beneficial.

Electronics such as phones and cameras hate cold. The cold will eat up batteries and if the electronic is on, the battery will suck down quicker than you would think. Something else I learned recently is that iPhones REALLY don’t like cold and the battery can be very fickle. I started my hike with a full battery to take a short video. After 5 minutes of taking video, the phone shut off. I found that even if the battery is not dead, it will shut off when cold. After I warmed it up and turned it back on, it had 60% battery left. After 2 minutes of video, it dropped to 20% then shut off and was dead. If you don’t need to use the electronic while hiking, put it in your pack, wrapped in clothes to keep it warm and turn it off when not using it. If you will be using it on the trail, put it in the pocket of the layer closest to your body. It my case, I would put it in my jeans pocket, or my fleece sweatshirt pocket. This will help keep the battery warm. If you are using it while hiking, you can put a hand warmer on the back side of it to help warm the battery. Something to remember is, when hiking, you warm up and don’t feels the cold, but it’s still there and can hurt your electronics.

If you wear glasses, you can buy anti fog spray to keep them from fogging over. This can be found in sports stores, dive shops, paintball shops, etc. If it is cold out, you will want to have a neck gator or balaclava over your face which will fog up your glasses (or ski goggles). This spray works very well. Also, if you will be in a wet area, you can put RainX on your glasses to allow the water to run off.

If you layer just right for our hike, you may want to add an extra layer in your pack. When you stop to set up camp and fix dinner, you will cool down significantly, so you want that extra warmth. I suggest building a fire first thing, before you cool down. You can put your pack close to the fire or hang a clothes line nearby and put your extra layer on your pack or line. When you begin to cool down and need that extra layer, it will be nice and warm.

If you haven’t read some of my previous posts, you may learn a cool idea for space blankets. If you place a space blanket on the ground and stake it down, between the fire and your shelter, the heat will reflect into the shelter to warm it up. You can also place your pack on the edge of the space blanket nearest the shelter and the fire will keep your pack warm.

When hiking, the general rule is to take your first break after 30 minutes of hiking, then every 50 minutes after that. But in winter, it is crucial that you keep sweating to a minimum. If you start feeling yourself heat up or sweat, you can start by opening your layers to cool off. But I suggest taking a short break once you start feeling like you’re about ready to sweat. Sit down, get a drink, unzip your jacket, and hang out for about 5 minutes before continuing. When you feel it is starting to get too cold to leave your jacket unzipped, it’s time to keep going. Remember, too, that if there is more than one person in your party, you need to accommodate to everyone. You should take your break when the first person needs to. As soon as one of your buddies says it’s time for a break, take a break. You may feel fine, but if he is starting to sweat, it’s time to stop.

When hiking in snow, I recommend only having one bottle of water with you. You don’t really need any more than that. Yes, you burn more calories in the winter and water consumption goes up, but you really only need one bottle. Keep a Nalgene bottle in an insulator and this is your drinking water for the hike. When you need more water, you can pull out your cook pot and melt snow. Not only can you melt snow, but you can heat it up and add hot cocoa or tea! You already carry more gear in the winter than summer and that extra water only adds unnecessary weight. Not only that, but if you are on a long hike and don’t have insulators for all of your bottles, they could possibly freeze.

Speaking of freezing, you want to carry your water bottle upside down when on long hikes, especially when it’s REALLY cold out. I have an insulator that goes on the outside of my pack, but is still keep the bottle upside down. If your water starts to freeze, it will freeze on top first. If your bottle is right side up and begins to freeze, you will have an ice layer to break through. But if the bottle is upside down, the water will freeze in the bottom of the bottle. Also, another word of advice: leave the Camelback at home! You can get insulators for the bladder and hose and keep the water warm, but it’s more work than needed and a bottle works just as well. If you use a Camelback, you have to blow that water that’s in the hose, back into the bladder to keep it from freezing and even then, the bite piece can freeze.

These are just a few tips to start off the winter. There will be plenty more during the season along with specifics on hiking, packing a gear sled, building a gear sled, skiing, snowshoes, and more. I hope you are ready for your first winter hike and if you are a seasoned hiker, I hope you can take something away from this post. Please comment any questions or suggestions.

Preparing For This Winter: Layering

Well, winter is approaching and so comes the time to start winterizing our gear and preparing for the cold. Yesterday, I began my conditioning for the cold as well as swapping out gear in my pack for the winter. For those who are not used to winter camping and hiking, there’s a lot of learning to do to avoid being miserable on the trip.

First of all, let’s talk about conditioning. To condition for the cold, the best thing to do is start hiking in the cold in growing intervals. Go out and maybe hike for 20 minutes. Then next time, hike for 40 minutes. This is the best way to condition if you aren’t used to being in the cold. However, you might find it a shock that, even in 10 degree weather, you will warm up quite fast when hiking.

If you are going to start going on your “conditioning hikes”, I suggest taking your pack with an extra jacket liner or sweatshirt, extra hat, extra gloves, hand warmers, and water and snack. You could also bring a thermos of coffee. As you hike, you may find that you need to shed layers. If you are cold blooded, you may find that you need to add that extra layer to start out. My hike yesterday was about 12 miles in about 21 degrees. I ended up shedding all of my layers except my base layer, shell, and one insulation layer.

When I mention to people that I hike and camp in winter they respond with an “are you crazy?” But in all reality, most of those people haven’t hiked long distances before. I’m always asked if I get cold. Well, when you are hiking, you are generating heat and will be surprisingly warm. This depends some, too, on how you layer, what materials you wear, and how often you taken breaks. Since you are generating heat when hiking, you will stay relatively warm. To be honest, if you have your camp set up right and a good sleeping bag, you will even stay warm during the night. The only part you have to worry about is when you are setting up camp and fixing dinner. This is when you begin to cool down and are out in the elements. If you have sweated at all, you may cool down pretty rapidly, but that comes back to how you layer.

While we are on the topic, let’s discuss layering. Layering is the best way to regulate your body temperature and avoid getting too hot or too cold. I know people who ask if I have a thick, warm coat and my answer is “no I don’t”. A single, thick, heavy coat will cause you to heat up and you if you take it off, you will cool down in a hurry. Instead, having a lighter coat and multiple insulation layers, you can shed layers to cool down, but not worry about being too cold. If you want to be most effective in your layering, follow these guidelines. You can alter this after you figure out what works, but this is a good start.

You want to, first, have a base layer. This is also called the wicking layer. The base layer will not only keep you warm, but will wick the sweat away from you. When we sweat, evaporation takes place and cools us down. This layer will pull the sweat away from you before it starts to cool you down. A synthetic material is your best option for this. I would go even further to say the some type of thick spandex would be best. I wear spandex for my shirt and leggings. I would also recommend a synthetic sports sock. Your feet will be the first to start sweating, so you want a good wicking material for your base layer socks. And not only does your base layer provide that protection, it also makes great sleepwear which prevents you from having to change before bed.

Next is the insulation layer. This is really what keeps you warm. This layer can be anywhere from a sweatshirt, to a jacket liner. This layer can also be anywhere from one item, to several, depending on the climate. For my insulation layer, I wear a polyester shirt with a half-zip. Then for additional layers, I have a fleece sweatshirt and wool vest. For legs, I just wear jeans. Your legs don’t need quite so many layers because they are almost always moving and staying warm. Something else to consider is thermal underwear. I will generally have a full layer of this over my base layer. If you use thermals, don’t make it your base layer. This material will soak up sweat and just sit there, becoming a wet and soppy mess. These also make great sleepwear. When you are selecting your insulation layer, find some with full zippers. When you hike and heat up, you may want to unzip your jacket and insulation layers to cool down a bit.

The last layer is the shell. This is what really protects you. You will want a waterproof, windproof jacket. I have a Columbia winter jacket that I took the liner out of. It has enough warmth to just wear that for your cool down, but also keeps the wind and snow off of you. I also have some winter pants. They are a waterproof shell with a fleece liner. They also have cargo pockets on them to store items.

I recommend wearing wool socks when hiking. Even if it gets wets, wool will still keep you warm. I wouldn’t use more than 2 layers for the socks though, just your base layer and your wool. When you get more layers or tighter socks, they squeeze the feet which slows circulation and cools your feet.

Because you are only using 2 layers on the feet, you want a good snow boot or shoe. I use a Garmont GTX boot which is well insulated. If you are skiing, you should already have a good boot. Just make sure it’s warm or else, your feet will not like you. Something to also consider when looking for a winter hiking boot is for a little ring on the front. Some people are baffled by what the purpose of this ring is, but it is so you can hook the front of your gators to your shoe. And I highly recommend gators if you are in a snowy area.

You should always have a glove liner for any type of glove you wear. Just a thin, wool liner will work. You want something warm, but will be easy to manipulate small objects such as knots. This will keep your hands from freezing when setting up camp. You should also have your shell. The shell depends on how cold it is outside. In early winter, you may just need a thin winter glove. In colder areas, you will want ski gloves or mittens. Mittens are good because they keep the fingers together which keep your hands warmer.

I will usually wear a beanie for a hat. Where I live, it doesn’t usually reach arctic temperatures so this works fine. I pair this with a neck gator (a balaclava works even better). If you suspect a lot of wind and cold, a hood is also good to have. I have a warmer hat with rabbit fur on the inside, but your head is where all the heat escapes your body and if you wear a too warm of hat, you will begin to sweat very quickly.

To lastly sum up this post, I want to stress the importance of waterproofing your gear. Most new boots don’t come waterproofed so you will need to do it yourself. You can buy a cheaper waterproofing spray from a shoe store and use it on your shoes when they are clean and dry, and about 2 times a year. You can also use this spray on your jacket, pants, or anything else that may get wet.

That is a good basis for layering. Again, alter this list to match your needs. I hope this was a help to you and stay tuned for part 2.

Travelling Abroad

I recently took a trip overseas to a third world chain of islands and learned a few nuggets of wisdom while I was there. It had been a while since I last traveled outside the country prior to this trip and I not only learned some tricks to get around in a foreign country, but also how to seamlessly get through customs and the airports.

My family and I traveled to St. Lucia and then sailed down through the Grenadines. Being how this is a backpacking blog and not a sailing blog, I will not go over points on sailing. As we went there, we passed through customs and security seamlessly. However, on the way back, we had a few hangups.

First of all, I will cover how to travel abroad. Before going, as with any trip, you want an itinerary. You will want to have the trip fully planned out to avoid having hangups when you arrive. I suggest knowing where you are going to travel, how many days at each location, where you will stay, and how you will obtain food. In addition, you should already have your plane tickets purchased and know when your flights are and whether or not you have any layovers. As in our case, we had no layover between two flights and had to rush to get to the next gate. In another instance, we had a four hour wait. Be aware of how long you have between flights so you can plan accordingly. Having your tickets already purchased  will minimize the hassle of getting through the airport. In my opinion, airports are already a pain to get through without any additional problems.

When you are at the airport and traveling internationally, you will go through customs, ticket check, passport check, and maybe a few other checkpoints where you will need your passport. Keep your passport handy! If you put it back in your bag or traveler's wallet, you will spend that extra time digging it out each time you you hit a checkpoint. I advise to keep your passport in your hand at all times with your boarding pass in your passport. This will ensure no one can swipe it from you. And something else I found helpful is to have a fanny pack. I know they aren't really socially acceptable anymore and really make you stand out as a tourist, but if you just keep everything in your fanny pack (phone, wallet, etc.), you know where everything is. I also found it helpful to have everything in a fanny pack because when you go through security, you only have the fanny pack to take off and don't have to worry about digging everything out of your pockets, which will take you through security faster. Speaking of going through security, you will also want your electronics handy, maybe in the top of your bag. Some airports will require you to turn on your electronics and having them handy will ease the process.

I have found it easier to only bring a carry on rather than checked baggage. Most airlines will allow one checked bag, one personal item (such as another small bag or laptop), and misc. items. Misc. items can be anything from a book, fanny pack, purse, or anything small that you can carry. My advice is to keep it to a minimum. When going through checkpoints, it's a real hassle to have an arm full of stuff. However, you may be on your way to a backpacking trip in which a carry on is not feasible. If this is the case, I recommend your carry on be your day pack so that you will not have any excessive bags to carry. Also, if you are checking your pack, I suggest putting it in a bigger duffel bag. That way, the straps and such won't snag on things and keeps your pack from getting damaged. 

As you look into flights consider this: plane tickets are like the stock market. One day, a ticket may be $700 and next day, may be $1500. So just keep your eye out for the best deal. I also highly recommend using a travel site like Kayak or Expedia. These make it a little easier to find a cheaper flight. If it will be an extensive, involved, or expensive trip, it may be beneficial to hire a travel agent. 

Moving away from flying, let's look at being in a foreign country. You want to try to minimize looking like a tourist, especially in poorer countries. I know that having your pack will make you stand out a little, but do what you can to minimize this stereotype. In third world countries, locals can spot a tourist from a mile away and will be right on you to sell you something. 

Speaking of selling you stuff, always be on guard. What I noticed is that in touristy areas, people can sell you stuff before you even realize it. They put the item in your hand, talk about how good it would suit you, then ask for the money. Theses "business people" really know how to get you to buy what they have to sell. "Here, hold this bracelet. Put it on. WOW!! It really compliments your eyes. Try this necklace, it will go great with this bracelet. Take these back home and really show your friends what it's like here." And before you know it, they have sold you the necklace and bracelet. 

Also be on guard for services. Some people will help you with something then charge an outrageous price. When we were mooring in a harbor, a young man came up and tied off our boat for us without our permission (actually we told him that we didn't need his services), then charged for it. He refused to leave until we pay him. After refusing to pay, we stayed on guard all night to make sure he didn't untie us. On another occasion, we docked our dingy and a couple guys hung around the dock to look after the dingies. Then one guy guides us to a restaurant. When we returned, they charged us $70 EC (about $40 USD) for their service. Then one local told us about a beautiful waterfall and said that if we paid him $20 a person, he will guide us to it. After refusing, another local came up and tipped us off that if we just walk up the road a couple miles, we would come to the waterfall. All I can say is be sure you ask for the price of the service before accepting and be sure that you actually need the service. They will naturally avoid the question, but do not accept any services without first knowing what it's going to cost. These are only some examples, but the key is to be aware that in poor countries, you will be scammed if not on guard. 

This goes back to keeping from looking like a tourist. Some vendors (in most countries) will charge tourists almost twice the original amount for a product.  My advice is to go to stores with marked prices. Where we were at, some stores did not mark their prices so they could charge you whatever they wanted. However, fresh fruit from a local vendor is absolutely delicious. If you go to one of these, know the prices before agreeing to buy. If they think you may go somewhere else to buy, they will often lower their prices. In some places, it could benefit you to have good negotiation skills to lower the prices. 

Also before going overseas, be aware of the exchange rate. If you don't, it may shock you. In our case, it worked in our favor, but for some countries, it may not. Also be aware of the economy. A bad economy will have higher prices. Where we went, a box of cereal costed $12 USD. 

If you are going to a country that is not predominantly English, it wouldn't hurt to learn the basics of their language. In the area of the Caribbean we were at, the native language is Creole which is a broken French. If you can speak French, you can sort of speak Creole. The whole time I was there, I had wished I knew some French. The first language down there is English, but they all also speak Creole. I believe if you learn some of the language where you are going, it will be more enjoyable. 

If you are in a country of different culture, it's a good idea to have a friend or two with you to watch each others backs. Some countries are crime ridden and you want to avoid being the victim. Don't travel when dark. Stay in public areas. Don't get in a vehicle with someone you don't know. Just be aware that it is possible to be a victim of crime, especially in Europe or countries stricken with poverty. 

In the event that you are approached my a robber, don't argue, give him the money. In these places, most robbers won't have a problem killing you. I suggest wearing a money belt or keeping a majority of your money in your shoes, but keep like $5 in your pocket. That way the robber gets something and won't suspect you are holding back. If they try to take your pack, let him. It's better to lose your gear than to end up dead. If you are robbed of just money, it's not worth going to local authorities, but if it's your pack, it would be worth going to them and they may be able to catch the robber and return your pack. That's why it's a good idea to have your name, country, and phone number on your stuff. Don't put your address on anything because if they get ahold of that, you may return home to an empty house (mostly a problem in countries with organized crime such as France, England, etc.). 

Also be on the lookout for pit pocketing. I suggest keeping everything in your pack. I mean EVERYTHING. That way, they can't swipe anything from you without pulling your pack off. If you know that you are going somewhere that this could be a problem, bring a pack without outside pockets. But remember to keep a little money in your pocket in the case someone tries to rob you. In some countries, it is common to have children pit pocket people. There can be groups up to 40 kids with cardboard who will swarm you and push cardboard up against you so that you don't feel them pulling stuff out of your pockets. In this case, or any other case, don't be afraid of being aggressive and pushing them back, yelling at them, and getting away. Sometimes these groups are good enough to swipe money belts and neck lanyards, so be aware. 

Moving away from money, let's talk about sleeping accommodations. Your sleeping accommodation may change thought the trip but here's some tips. 

1.  Don't use provided linens at a hotel/motel in foreign countries. Use your sleeping bag to avoid bed bugs. Also, some places don't wash their linens. If you suspect bed bugs, sleep on the floor.  

2.  If you are staying at a hotel, motel, bed and breakfast, or a hostel, don't leave your pack. If you go out sightseeing or to dinner, take your pack. Otherwise, it may not be there when you get back. 

3. If you are staying at a hostel, don't leave anything out. Wear your clothes to bed, put everything in your pack, and possibly snuggle with your pack or use it as a pillow. Oftentimes in hostels, there may be 20 people sleeping in the same room. If you don't keep your belongings close, they may be missing the next day.

4. Unless you are "wilderness hiking" to a hostel, try to get sleeping accommodations in a busy, public area. This may avoid someone breaking in. 

5. It's a good idea to reserve your sleeping accomadations before the trip. This will ensure that you have a place to sleep. Don't want to end up sleeping at a bus station. Hosteling International is a good place to start for reserving a bed. 

I think this a good start to traveling abroad. If you are going somewhere completely foreign, I suggest really researching and buy a guidebook for that area. That would be your best bet to maximizing your trip. 

Budgeting for Gear

If you are new to backpacking, cycling, hiking, and the like, you are probably trying to find what gear is suitable for you. When I first started, I researched for a long time on each piece of gear I got (mostly looking over gear reviews). I took the approach of buying gear I thought I could use without really looking at what I actually needed. This certainly filled my gear closet, but unfortunately, I hardly ever use most of the gear I have. The downside to buying all the gear that you "think" you need is the cost of buying it. A lot of this gear can be very pricey and you really should research what you really need before buying your gear.

First, you want to think about what kind of adventuring you are interested in. If it's cycling, you have buy a good bike, along with the panniers, and the rest of the gear you need for camping. If you're hiking, you need some good shoes and a good, comfortable pack. So, as you look for your gear, consider what conditions you will be in. If you're wilderness hiking, you will need some additional gear that you won't need for hiking to a hostel. Are you hiking along or as a group? This is a very important factor! If you are in a group, you may not have to get certain things, such as a cook set.

As you look for gear, probably the first things you are going to look at (that costs some money) are a tent/hammock, sleeping bag, air mattress, cook set, backpack/panniers, and some good shoes. So, lets look at what you really need.

As far as a tent, are you hiking alone? If you are alone and don't need excess room, you can buy a small 2 person tent from WalMart. You can settle for a cheaper tent to start out with. You may spend around $60 for a tent to start out. If you have an abundance of money, you can get a more pricey tent such as an MSR, Big Agnes, or Eureka. However, these can cost as much as $300. My first backpacking tent was a 2 person one that was on sale at WalMart.

Now for the important thing: sleeping bag. A good sleeping bag is the difference between sleeping at night and being miserable. You want a good, comfortable sleeping bag. You can get one at WalMart, but the smaller ones that fit into a pack are not all that great. I recommend Big Agnes, North Face, or Slumberjack. These are a little costly, but will last a while and are much better than a $20 one. Of the 3 things that you should put a little more money into, I believe a sleeping bag is one.

Sleeping pads are cheap and a foam one can be bought for $5. The more comfort you want, the more you are going to spend. A basic one is around $5, but a better one can cost up to $30. If you insist on superior comfort, you can go with a backpacking air mattress such as a Big Agnes of Slumberloft. These can be expensive though. Before buying one of these, ask yourself how often you will really use it. I used mine a few times after getting it, then went to hammock camping and quit using it. I use it a little more now, but before buying gear, make sure you know what kind of camping you are interested in.

The second thing I believe you should spend some money on is shoes. It is important to have good hiking shoes! If you have mediocre shoes, your feet will hate you after a day of hiking. I recommend GTX, Columbia, Salomon, or Keen. These as expensive shoes, but are worth it. You should determine whether you need high tops or low cut. Generally, low cuts are cheaper. A good pair of shoes can range from $60 to $190.

The third thing that I think you should put a little extra money into is a backpack. If you buy a cheap backpack, it won't last long and will give you problems on the trail. Again, these can cost some money, sometimes up to $200. Before buying, determine what kind of hiking are doing. Are you day hiking? Then you don't need an expedition pack. There are different style packs for different types of hikes such as alpine, expedition, day packs, and climbing. If you get a good pack, it will last you for a very long time. I recommend brands such as Osprey, Teton, and North Face.

Cook sets and stoves can cost a small fortune, so you want to be sure what exactly you need. If you are hiking in a group, see if a couple others have a cook set and if they do, you may not need one. If you do get one for group hiking, you may need a bigger set. But then again, it depends on how you do meals. If you are hiking on your own or if everyone in your party is responsible for his own meals, get a smaller set. Not only are these cheaper, but they fit in a pack better. Some of these can cost up to $150, but you can find some for around $30. Some good brands are Jet Boil (which also has it's own built-in stove), GSI, or MSR. Think about how you cook. Do you minimize? Do you make extravagant meals? This will depend on what set you get. Also, do you winter camp? If so, you may need a bigger pot for melting snow.

Stoves can range from $20 to $200. If you are starting out, you probably don't need an expensive one. I have a $20 one that I got off Amazon when I first started backpacking and continue to use it because it works really well. You can get a Jet Boil, MSR, or Solostove, but these are expensive. Also decide what kind of cooking you will do and what type of stove you need. Will a wood stove or alcohol stove be sufficient for what you are doing?

From there, you have the rest of your your gear that is less expensive such as navigation, flashlights, paracord, etc. These things you can buy gradually. Some stuff you may think you need, but probably really don't. However, some things seem logical to have, but you end up not using it. The best way to determine what you need is to just out get out and camp and hike. As you gain experience, you will learn what you will use and what you won't. If you need a list of what you might need, refer to one of my previous posts on my gear list (click here).

Overall, you can budget for each item: tent $100, sleeping bag $50, sleeping pad $10, stove $30, backpack $150, shoes $90, cook set $30, misc. hiking/camping gear $120-$200. So, if you were to buy it all at once, you could pay around $600 which isn't too bad. The key is to really determine what you absolutely need and start with that. I hope this post has helped in figuring your cost and budgeting for your gear. As always, any questions or tips, please comment.

Surviving the Storm pt. 2

I recently did a post on how to camp and hike in a storm as well as the dangers. You should, by now, know where to set up and when; how to position yourself; and how to avoid the dangers of storms. But what about waiting out a storm? What could you do when it rains all evening? How can you get dry during a storm? These are questions I have assessed and there are many answers to each. 

Okay, so you know a storm is coming. You set up your camp, already made dinner, and you are now in your tent. Now what? Well suppose you got wet while making dinner. The most important thing is to get dry. If it is even slightly chilly outside and you are wet, you can develop hypothermia. Your rain jacket is waterproof, so if you need to, you can leave it outside. If you are in a large tent, you can also drape it over your pack to dry. If you have a gear loft in your tent, you can hang clothes there to dry. If you do this, be sure to put a towel down as to not soak your sleeping bag. 

If, before you set out, you know it is about to rain, you are better off bringing a bigger tent or a hammock. If you bring a smaller, one person tent that is just big enough to sleep in, you will be uncomfortable trying to do anything in it. If it rains for a full evening and you have a larger tent, you can sit up and read or whatever it is you do. With a hammock, you can sit sideways in it like a chair so you don't have this problem. However, if you are camping in a hammock, you may have difficulty undressing without getting wet. Unless you are skilled and experienced in hammock camping, you are probably better off bringing a tent if you know it's going to rain. 

The big concern I have always had is "if my tent is wet and I pack it up to hike for the day, will it mold?" Unlikely. I have a buddy who, at one time, packed his tent up when wet and didn't get to airing it out until about 2 weeks later and it didn't mold. Of course, this depends on your climate. If you are hiking a trail and are packing up to move on with intentions of pitching your tent that night, you won't have any problems with mold. However, there are some things you can do to prevent mold. First, when the trip is over, set your tent out for a couple days to dry. Second, if you had your tent put away when wet, turn the stuff sack inside out to allow it to dry as well. 

As far as clothing, the sooner you get it dry, the better. When in your tent, wring it as much water as you can, then hang it to dry. If you have any type of fabric that absorbs water, be sure to dry it out because it can mold quickly. If it is a waterproofed material, it will take longer to mold. When you are only doing a few day trip, you shouldn't have to worry about drying anything out until you get home. But if you are doing a week or longer, be sure to dry everything out as you go. 

You already know to wear clothing to keep you dry, but in the morning, you could get pretty miserable treading through mud. If you suspect it's going to rain, be sure to have good waterproofed shoes. In addition, you want some good, waterproof gators. These will keep your pants dry and keep from getting water in your shoes. 

As far as what to do to wait out a storm? Well, I normally take a book along. This is a great way to pass the time. Every once in a while, I'll take my harmonica and could play it for hours to occupy myself. If you hadn't made dinner yet, you certainly can do that. However, there are some things to be aware of. 

When cooking in your tent, gases from the stove create carbon monoxide which is very dangerous. When cooking, be sure you have plenty of ventilation. If your tent has a vestibule, you are better off cooking in it. When in the tent, be sure your stove in on a flat surface. It could be bad if your stove tips over and lights your tent ablaze. Best thing to remember is avoid tipping the stove over, and be sure to have plenty of ventilation. 

The main goal is to keep as dry as possible and minimize how much gear gets wet. Be sure you dry out all you can, when you can to avoid mold. Overall, camping in the rain can be a pleasurable experience. On the other side, it can be miserable if you don't prepare right. If you have any questions or tips, please comment. 

Surviving the Storm

With the fall season on us, so is the rain. There's just something about falling asleep to the sound of the rain drops on a tent and the smell of the precipitation. I always enjoy a good rain and especially watching a good storm. I even find it somewhat enjoyable to hike or cycle in it. With that being said, being out in a storm can, at times, be dangerous and even lethal. Therefore, it is essential to recognize when a bad storm is coming and what to do when it does. It's also good to know how to prepare yourself for hiking or cycling in the rain. 

Many people don't like hiking in the rain because of having to walk while wet, but if you know how to be ready for the rain, it can be a good experience. The first step to being ready is looking at the forecast before heading out. If you are going on a month trip, or longer, sometimes that can be difficult. Of course, you don't want to take anything you won't need, but you don't want to be caught in a storm without rain gear. I carry a lightweight cycling rain jacket that can be rolled up and stowed away in a small pocket. This is always a good idea. If you don't know if you will hit a storm or not, you should be prepared with at least a jacket or poncho. There are many lightweight, thin rain jackets out there that you can choose from. With my rain jacket, I also wear nylon, water proof Guide Gear pants. They are not rain pants, but the rain rolls right off of them and they dry quite fast. You can find a cheap, lightweight rain suit that comes with a jacket and pants and is easy to pack. You can go with just a jacket, but if you don't have waterproof pants, it could get miserable. 

Ideally, you want a jacket, pants, and hat that will keep the rain off of you. In addition, you want to always preemptively prepare for rain by waterproofing your shoes. You can find waterproofing spray at any shoe store or Walmart.  Not only does this protect from rain, but also from dew in the morning. If your shoes have mesh on them, it can be a little more difficult to waterproof them. It can be a bad deal if you get your socks wet. Walking in wet socks can cause trench-foot and ruin the rest of the trip. 

In addition to waterproofing yourself, it is essential to waterproof your gear. Most of us carry gear that can be ruined by the rain. The first step is to have a pack cover. If you don't have one of these, I highly recommend getting one. These are the most elementary way to keep your pack dry. They hardly take any space in your pack and can be taken on any trip. In my opinion, every pack should have it's own cover that stays in the pack all the time. However, this won't completely waterproof the pack. 

It is good to also waterproof the inside. You can use your waterproofing spray to spray down your pack. I recommend getting a waterproof liner for your pack. You can find these all over the internet and they range in size and price. You can also look at dry bags. However, dry bags can get heavy and can take up space. What I do is use a contractor bag. These are heavy duty trash bags. They are a little weighty, but are pretty close to the weight of a bag liner. They are also thicker than regular trash bags so they won't tear as easily. I don't always use it because every time you use a pack liner, it takes away space that could be used for gear. I will, however, use it if I know it's going to rain or if I'm hiking in damp climate. The bags can also be cut down and used in panniers. 

Panniers can also be waterproofed from the outside. Most panniers come with rain covers. But if you really think you will be riding in a lot of rain or planning on doing some long rides, I recommend a waterproof pannier. There are many brands out there that make panniers that are essentially dry bags. A major brand is Axiom. When it comes to waterproofing your pack, there are many options and you can get creative. There are also some backpacks that have a big, built-in dry bag. 

But now that you and your pack are ready for the rain, let's head out! Although, what if you hit a BAD storm? Some storms can be bad enough to tear guy-lines  and tents, blow your tent over, or flood you out. So what can you do to minimize damage of an unexpected bad storm?

First, let's prevent getting flooded out. In camping basics, we know to always set up camp in the high grounds. The higher you are, the less chance you have of getting flooded. With that being said, too high of ground can result in lightning strikes. So you want balance it out, being high enough to avoid the flooding and low enough to avoid lightning. 

Avoiding lighting can be quite tricky when camping. We all know that if hiding from lightning, you don't want to be near any trees. But if you want to avoid strong winds, you want the shelter from the trees. The best way to set up is a little ways away from the trees, enough to avoid the lightning. Set up downwind from the trees. If all possible, find a campsite that is near a ridge and set up downwind from the ridge. This will ensure that you are sheltered from the wind and partially sheltered from lightning. Now, the ridge will push the rain from the clouds and you may get more rain than you would if you weren't next to a ridge, but if you are in a tent, it won't matter. One note to remember, hammocks are dangerous in thunderstorms. If a tree is truck by lightning and you are tied to it, it could be lethal. If you know it is going to storm, you're better off to bring a tent. On another note, if you are camped near trees (even in a tent) you run the risk of falling branches. 

Now, let's position the tent for the storm. As I said earlier, you want to shelter the tent from the wind. Wind will damage your tent more than rain will. For the most part, we try to set up in the timbers to be sheltered from the rain. I know I said that you want to set up away from trees, but I do have an exception. I often camp in an area that is all timber. If you are where it is 98% timber, you can find a lower spot in the woods, still avoiding the low flood spots. Where I often camp, there is a hill that goes down to a deep ravine. It is well sheltered, low enough to avoid lightning, and the rain flows away for the camp. This is ideal! Unfortunately, this not the case in most locations. But if you can find a heavily woods area, you will have a lower chance of lightning strikes in your camp. If you do camp In an area like I described, keep away from the ravines and creeks. If they flood, so will your camp. This is especially true In desserts and rain forests. 

Now that you have your location, let's set up the tent. If you have a dome tent, there is no particular way to set up to deflect the wind. However, if you face the door down wind, it will minimize the rain getting in your tent when you enter and exit. When you set up your tent in the rainy season, be sure to put the rain fly on before going out on your day hike. It would be a bad deal to be on a hike and have rain in your tent. If you own multiple tents, be sure to bring one that has a rain fly that reaches the ground, or at least well covers the netting on the tent. I have a small tent the has a small rain fly. It only covers down to where the netting meets the fabric of the tent. In this case, when the wind blows, rain can blow under the fly and into the tent. 

If you have a shaped tent as in the picture (like my Eureka! Solitaire) point the small end into the wind. If it is a thinner tent, point it into the wind as if it was an arrow. Doing this will minimize the wind blowing the tent over. It is ideal if you have guy-lines in the middle of the tent to hold it down. This will also help to keep the wind from pushing the tent. 

If you are hammock camping and come across and unexpected storm, there are ways to keep yourself safe. If you have a rainfly for the hammock, you can find 2 sturdy branches (or trekking poles) and put them in the ground about 20 ft. apart and tie off your fly to them, as if you were tarp camping. If nothing else, you could use trees, but still sleep on the ground. That way, if lightning does strike, you will be at lower risk of it conducting into you. 

Lastly, if you are caught in a lightning storm before camp is made, you should take standard precautions. Find low ground and crouch as low as you can, keeping only your feet on the ground, and keep your head down. You are better off to put your pack on the ground away from you. Of course, these are standard actions for lightning storms. However, if you know a storm is coming, you're better off pitching camp before the storm hits. In all reality, being truck by lightning is a rare occurrence. In 2013, there were only 23 fatal lightning strikes. If you would like to see more on lightning strike statistics go to this link: http://www.lightningsafety.noaa.gov/fatalities.htm. 

If it is cold outside and you know rain is on it's way, you need to set up camp right away. If you get wet and it's cold out, it can take 30-60 minutes to go into hypothermia. When you develop hypothermia, it is too late to set up your tent and get a fire going, so be sure to set up camp early. (Keep your eyes open for a future post on hypothermia.)

These are basics for preparing and protecting yourself in rain and storms. This topic is flexible for innovation so experiment and you may find more ways to protect yourself and your pack from the rain and storm. Stay tuned for a future post on post-storm camping. Any questions or other ideas, please comment. 

Gear Review: Camelback Rogue

One of the most important things that you can take on your trek is water. We can only live 3-5 days without water. That makes water a valuable thing to have when hiking, biking, boating, or simply walking. Most people understand this. Because it's so important, there are several brands that make all different styles of containers to carry it. One of those brands is Camelback. I have never done a review on any Camelbak item before so I will do one on Camelbak itself, along with a particular hydration system. 

Camelbak is one of the most well known brands when it comes to water carrying systems. They have a wide variety from water bottles and bladders, to filters, backpacks, and drink mixes. In fact, they even make gear for the military. Because of the quality and name, they are a little pricey, but you do get what you pay for. 

To start out, let's look at a water bladder (since that is primarily what this review is about). Camelbak makes 3 sizes of bladders: 50 oz., 70 oz., and 100 oz. These can range from backpack style bladders to lumbar pack bladders. All bladders are BPA free and range in shapes. The lid is easier to get off and on than other bladders. With Camelbak, it only takes a quarter turn to take it off or replace it. This makes refilling so much quicker. The mouth also has 2 stands that flip out to air dry the bladder, which is unique to Camelbak. The top of the mouth also has a little hook to secure it in other packs (such as your large pack for backpacking). 

The hose (that I have) is a little shorter than other brands. It took some getting used to, but I think I like it better. With my old bladder, if the hose hung down it would drip. However, the nozzles on Camelbak bladders are very well made and have a shut off valve on them. Therefore, if the hose is hanging, it won't drip. The way it hangs also makes it easier to just pick up, drink, and drop it. There is also an option to get a clip that goes near the bite piece and can be clipped to a shit or strap to have it near your mouth. Camelbak also makes insulators to keep the water, that is in the hose, cold. 

Altogether, the bite piece and hose are comfortable. And not only are they comfortable, but also easy to clean. The bladder, hose, and bite piece are all very well designed. 

Now, onto the carriers. Camelbak has a huge variety of packs. They have large day packs that are great for short backpacking trips. They also have small packs that only hold the bladder. As I said before, they have backpack and lumber pack styles. Each of the packs are designed for a specific purpose, whether biking, running, or hiking. The pack I have is the "Rogue". This is a medium sized pack that is a actually designed for biking. 

This pack comes in either red or black, unless you get the redesigned one which has green. It runs around $85. The pack is made of a durable nylon material. The front of it (the part on your back) has 2 mesh/foam pieces down the sides. These make the pack more comfortable and allow for air flow. The straps have this mesh as well for breathability. The back of the pack has reflective striping for cycling in low light or at night. The bottom of the pack has a small drain hole for the unfortunate event of a leaking bladder or if it gets wet. On the top of the pack is a loop to hang it up or carry it by hand. 

The bladder slides in the top like most do, and a Velcro strap holds it in place. In fact, the carrier holds the bladder snug enough to fill it without taking the bladder out. The flap that covers the mouth of the bladder does not secure like most small bladder carriers do. At first I didn't like this feature, but found that it makes filling the bladder much easier. There is a little plastic piece on the bottom of the flap to hold it down. 

The straps have nylon webbing that are adjustable. The ends of the straps have Velcro loops to secure them to the strap itself, to avoid the straps from flying around. The front of the straps have small gear loops with reflective tape on them. One strap also has a clip holder for the hose. The straps also have a chest strap with buckles. 

Looking at the face of it, the pack has a zipper pouch on the bottom part. Inside this zipper pouch, is a netted pouch. This is designed to hold bike repair tools. This pouch is suspended by netting, which makes an additional pouch behind it. Inside this pouch is an elastic loop which I call a "banana pocket". The mesh netting on sides also have compression straps that can be tightened. 

The flap that covers the mouth of the bladder also has a zipper pocket. On the inside of the pocket, is a small lanyard with a gear hook. In addition, all of the zippers have pull cords instead of standard zippers to keep from having a lost or broken zipper. 

The pack itself is very comfortable and feels natural on the back. It fits me well. For those of you who are ultralight hikers, this pack is very light when empty and it holds weight evenly. When I initially started looking for a Camelbak, I was trying to find a small daypack such as the "Fourteener" or "Mule". However, I am very happy with this smaller pack. Even though it is made for cycling, it works great for hiking as well. In fact, it has just the right amount if room for my essentials (compass, paracord, food, jacket, flashlight) and then some. For cyclists, the Rogue is great for day rides or if you are also riding with panniers. However, if you are cycling a long distance, I recommend looking into a lumbar pack because they don't sweat on your back. 

If you are looking for a good day hike pack, consider looking at the Mule, Rim Runner, Could Walker, or Trail Blazer. For what I'm doing, this pack is perfect. I put the bladder in my Teton Explorer pack and strap the Rogue pack on the outside to use for short day hikes after camp is set up. 

Overall, I would recommend getting a Camelbak. They are pricey, but it is a good investment. Any questions or experience, please comment below. 

Packing for kayak/canoe trip

As I'm getting ready to head out for an overnight kayak trip down the Mississippi River, I decided I would write a post on packing for overnight kayak/canoe trips. If you have read any number of my previous posts, you would know that I am a minimalist. I try to minimize my loads down to the bare essentials. With that being said, packing for a kayak or canoe trip is a little different. If you are on a bike or hiking, you have to lug that weight. But in a kayak or canoe, you can budget for more weight since you aren't physically carryinging it. 

As you pack, as with any trip, you have 2 categories of gear: net gear and gross gear. Your net gear is what you absolutely need and should take on every trip (i.e. Water bottle, compass, map, etc.) These are your essentials that should be on every trip. I keep all of these in a backpack or a pannier, while in storage, so they are all together. 

Gross gear is what you can be more flexible with. This is the gear that can be altered to your trip. (i.e. Clothes, food, shelter, etc.) Each trip is a little different and you may change what you bring. This is where you pick and chose to adjust your weight. 

Gear

As I said before, when packing to go out on the water, you can budget for more weight so you can have a few more luxuries. As far as what to bring, here is a list of your net gear:

Water bottles/bladder

Compass

Map of the area

Whistle

Flashlight (or headlight)

Multi tool

Cord (paracord)

Survival kit (fishing kit, matches, water purification tabs, space blanket, spare flashlight, etc)

First aid kit (minimum: bandaids, gauze pads, tape, medical gloves, Benadryl, antibiotic ointment)

Bandanna

Fire starter

These are what you should always have on you during a trip. Everything else you could possibly do without if you desire. Even though shelter, a stove, food, and sleeping bag are important and you may definately want them, you could do without if need be (at least for an overnight trip). In addition to this list, you can now add your gross gear. Below is what I recommend for an OVERNIGHT canoe/kayak trip. 

Some sort of shelter

Sleeping bag

Stove and fuel

Cook set

Food

1 change of clothing (if bringing shoes, a couple pairs of socks)

Fishing gear and license

Camp chair

Small shovel and saw

Water filter

Sunscreen

Insect repellant

Solar charger

Spare batteries

Rain gear

Tinder 

Toilet paper

Spare blanket

Of course, these item can be tailored to what you would use. Again, you don't have to exactly skimp on stuff, but you should also try to not overpack. In addition to these, you will need to take trek-specific gear: paddles, life jacket, etc. 

If you plan to go for more than one night, you can easily alter your list. The net gear will remain the same, but your clothes, food, etc. may be changed depending on how long you will be gone. 

I recommend making a list for each meal. What will you eat as a main course? What will you drink? Will you want any sides for the meal? These are some questions to ask when writing a menu. Also budget for snacks for during the trip. 

Next, how often will you change clothes? If I'm doing 3 nights, I could get by with 1 change of clothes, plus maybe an extra shirt or 2. Some people need to change every day. Bring the amount of clothes that you think you will need. 

Finally, how many people are in your group? If you will be by yourself, what's on the list may be all you need. If there's more than one person going, you may only need 1 stove, 1 tent, 1 shovel, etc. If it's not something that is specifically for you, you could probably bring just one of that item to share (such as a stove). 

Packing

To pack your gear, I highly recommend dry bags, especially in a canoe. I also use a dry bag in my kayak and put it in the front. The type of kayak also determines how much you bring. Size, sit on top vs. enclosed, compartment space. In a canoe, you can load your bags onto the floor and maybe tie them in. If it's a sit on top kayak, you will have to secure your dry bag, whereas with an enclosed one, you can push to the front and back, letting it just sit there. If you have compartments, store your immediate essentials that you will need on the trek in these. If it's airtight, even better. If it's not airtight, I would advise to not store anything that is not waterproof.  Everything else I would suggest packing in a dry bag. They do make dry bags that double as backpacks. 

I would also recommend getting some dry boxes. I keep my survival kit in a dry box, which I would advise doing. I also keep my multi tool, carabiners, fishing license, and any other small items in one. If you have a paper map, you can get a waterproof map case (or use a ziplock bag). I also have an Armor Series Otterbox. You can get one of these or Lifeproof for your phone if you plan to use it on the water. The key idea here is to waterproof anything that might get ruined if you tip over. I would also highly recommend tying everything to your watercraft or make sure everything floats to keep from losing it. 

Packing for a canoe/kayak trip is relatively simple (in my opinion). This is a good start and if you see need to get rid of some things or add some, you can do so. For a first time, overnight trip, this is a great start. Any questions or additional ideas, comment below. 

RAGBRAI 2014

This was my first year riding RAGBRAI and it was an experience. I learned a lot about bicycle touring. There are a few things I would have done differently , some things I would have left at home, and some things I wished I would have packed. 

This year, the ride was from Rock Valley to Guttenberg. The ride itself was 418 miles. With the Karras Loop, it was 444 miles. I went up with Keokuk Bike Club in a Trailways bus. But beforehand, we loaded all of our stuff in a truck that went up the day before we did. We also got our RAGBRAI packages that day. 

We went up Saturday, July 19 so we could get an early start the next day. It was about a 6 hr ride up to Rock Valley. 

When we got there, we went to our campsite to set up: a private residence. 

After setting up camp, we rode to the expo to look around.

This was probably the busiest the expo was all week. There were many vendors from bike companies such as Specialized and Giant, bike shops doing repairs, Camelback, Clif Bar, and many other vendors. We picked up quite a few free things including a Xyience energy drink. 

We brought our vouchers to the RAGBRAI tent to get our free patches. 

When in town, we decided to stop at the school for something to eat. 

After dinner, I went down to the river to dip my tire, a common tradition. 

...and met a few people along the way. 

We came back and enjoyed a relaxing night before the big day. 

Day 1: 

We got up about 5:30 to pack up and head out. I decided to also make my coffee before the ride. It was a nice start. It was a little cool in the morning but it wasn't too bad. I rode a Vision recumbant bike and Adventure Bear got his ride too. 

Before starting, a small group of us decided to do a first day photo. 

First town we came to was Hull where we got breakfast. It was a nice, leisurely ride. 

From there, we went through Boyden to Sheldon where we got our pie. We had a pie challenge to eat a different pie everyday. Unfortunately, it didn't work out and only had one pie the whole trip. 

Most of the towns also had live music. 

Along the way, we stopped at Beekman's homemade ice cream. They had a stand everyday but only stopped a few times including the first day. 

...And saw some different looking bikes. 

The rest of the ride was through Sheldon, Melvin, and May City, ending in Okoboji. However, we stayed in Milford. We stopped in each town for lunch, water break, etc. This was my first long ride and made the mistake of pushing myself too hard in the beginning, wearing myself out about 1/4 way through the first day. It was 69.2 miles so I was somewhat miserable by time I got in. So I just relaxed around camp at a school, after going into town for dinner. We went over to the school which had showers. That felt great after a grueling first day. 

Wore my kilt each night. 

Day 2:

The second day was relatively short with only 40 miles. I did make my coffee that day as well. It was a pretty easy day and was flat with only a few hills. We again woke at 5:30 and rode through Terril, Graettinger, and ended in Emmetsburg. 

Along the way, we stopped for smoothies. 

We stayed at a community college and just happened to camp next to a putting green. And just happened to have golf clubs. That night, we took showers at a shower trailer. 

Our truck driver was also our massage therapist who gave massages each night. 

We had our "campfire" that night to get to know each other. 

Day 3:

The third day we tried to take off a little early because of the long ride ahead of us. I made sure to make my coffee that day. This day was routed at almost 80 miles through Ringstead, Bancroft, Titonka, Gruis Recreation Center, and Crystal Lake, ending in Forrest city. In addition, I did the Karras Loop, an addition 26 mile loop through Burt and Lone rock. This loop makes it a 100 mile ride, but we got a patch for completing it. 

Day 3 seemed to take a long time to complete because of the distance. It was also the hottest day, high of 92 with no cloud cover. I made the mistake of not wearing a shirt and not using sunscreen, getting a couple second degree sunburns which would keep me from sleeping for 2 nights. Fortunately, though, some people put out sprinklers to cool us down. 

Burt had a special surprise for those of us who did the loop. They had a car show and their famous toilet tossing contest. 

Needless to say, I got in late that evening. We camped at a private residence. I was well impressed with it. The resident bought a mansion and moved it from Mason City to here by semi. He was an interesting guy. He also showed us his classic car collection (which I wasn't able to get pictures of). 

He had his own caboos. 

The windmill pumped drinking water from a well. 

Showers were taken with a hose that night. Although, because of my sunburn, I was chilling so my shower was taken with shower wipes. We also received word that one guy passed away on his bike today. 

Day 4: 

This was a more enjoyable day with few hills and only 38 miles. The ride was through Ventura and Clear Lake, ending in Mason City. Unfortunately, my phone died this day and cloud cover was enough to not let my solar charger charge my phone. Therefore, did not get many pictures. The highlight of the day was going into town and watching the concert. Warrant opened up for Bret Michaels, a great concert. And better yet, it was free admission!

(Warrant)

(Bret Michaels)

That was a later night, getting back from the concert. We stayed at a high school that night and had our shower at the school. 

Day 5:

The next three days were in the 60s mileage-wise. We rode through Nora Springs, Rockford, Marble Rock, Greene, Packard, and Clarksville, ending in Waverly. Again, I was unable to get many pictures of the ride because of a dead phone. We had a few hills, but it was mostly flat. This day, I got a malt which was very refreshing on a hot day. 

I went downtown to look around and also went to the expo. We turned in early that night, camping near a soccer field. Showers were taken at the high school. We received news that another guy had died in his tent. That was 2 deaths in the same RAGBRAI. It was reported that the last RAGBRAI with a death was in 2010. 

Home away from home. 

Decided to make my own dinner that night. 

Day 6:

This day was miserable. It stormed the night before and continued to sprinkle in the morning. It was also the coldest day, bypassing the first town: Bremer. As I came into Tripoli, it started to rain again. I stopped for breakfast and waited under a shelter. When I saw the rain wasn't going to let up, I kept going. As soon as I left that town, it began to pour and winds blew at 40-50 mph with a 60 degree temperature. 

It was a 10 mile ride through that to get to Sumner where I pulled into an ambulance base to wait out the storm and get my free coffee. Unfortunately, I did not have adequate rain gear. After the storm passed, I went into town and continued. The next hour was windy and cold. About an hour after the rain, though, the sun came out and heated things up so it seemed like it was a good day for homemade ice cream. From Sumner, we rode through Westgate, Oelwein, and Otterbille, ending in Independence. 

We camped in the backyard of a mental health institute that looked like it may have been an old hospital. 

After my shower at the shower trailer, I got my leg and foot massage. 

Day 7:

Everyone was pumped this last day, to get home. I skipped most towns because I was worried about being late for the bus. We rode through Winthrop, Lamont, Strawberry Point, Edgewood, And Garber, ending in Guttenberg. I did not focus on getting many pictures that day because we were anxious to get to Guttenberg. This day was also somewhat miserable with many hills. The closer we approached the river basin, the hillier it got. We had a few 14% grade hills that many people could not climb. However, the downhill was a blast, reaching speeds of almost 50 mph. I saw one guy who could not make the turn at the bottom of the hill and hit a wall. Needless to say, he was taken to the hospital. 

I came into Guttenberg almost right at the time we were required to be there. The line to dip our tires was almost a mile long so I was unable to dip my tire.

We loaded our luggage and bikes into the truck and it took off while we waited almost an hour for the bus. 

A majority of us slept the whole 4 hour trip home, including Adventure Bear. 

It was a good first RAGBRAI and I did enjoy it. Fortunately, I did not encounter any bike problems or health problems. Overall, it was a great trip.